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“A Nod To Punk,” Backstage At Versace

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“There’s a nod to punk in the collection,” Pat McGrath said backstage at Versace, referring to the studs, the chains, the PVC leather, and the nail closures that offered an update on the classic safety pins that once adorned similar frocks from the house that Gianni built. But in a funny twist of irony, that nod did not incite the makeup artist to seize upon the opportunity to offer up a smokier version of the typically black-rimmed lids she creates here season after season. “It’s just a little bit of an edge,” she explained.

Keeping skin “gorgeous and glowing,” McGrath lined the inner rims of eyes with an onyx kohl pencil, piling mascara onto the upper lashes while giving lower lashes just one or two slicks of the wand. Using a creamy blush on cheeks, she turned to a similarly flushed shade to slightly stain lips and eyes. “It works with that black,” McGrath explained of the increasingly popular ruddy shadow shade. “It looks healthy.”

Healthy complexions were essential here, considering Guido Palau’s “boyish but still very glamorous” coifs were entirely pulled back, putting the focus squarely on the face. Drying hair with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry Lotion for a “super-silky,” straight texture, Palau side-parted strands to the left and then coated his brush with its Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray before adding a bit of height to the hairline with a “comb up,” as he referred to the defined, quifflike ridge in the front. “It’s a little bit rock ‘n’ roll—and still sexy, of course,” Palau pointed out of the admittedly younger look. “It is Versace.”

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