Armed And “Empowered” Beauty, Backstage At Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung’s Fall mission was made immediately clear to anyone who stepped foot backstage before the show. There, at the entrance, was a large white mood board scattered with pictures of servicewomen. “He was telling me about how in the American army they just let women go to the front lines,” British-born hairstylist Paul Hanlon explained of Gurung’s directive for the season. “So he didn’t want anything too fussy or glamorous,” Hanlon continued of the “rough and disheveled” buns he devised for the occasion. Raking Schwarzkopf OSiS Quick Volume Mousse through lengths to give hair texture, Hanlon liberally applied its Dust It Mattifying Powder—”about a bottle per girl”—to roots for a drying effect. “She’s been outside, and she just pulled her hair back,” he elaborated of the style, which prompted him to add wind-blown wisps that were deliberately blown back with Schwarzkopf OSiS Elastic Flexible Hold Hairspray, “so it’s more savage,” he contended.
Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury was going for a similarly “empowered, fighting in a female army” look, but not in a “nineties, Amazonian kind of way,” she insisted. Instead, Tilbury created strength with a fresh, young “natural knowingness,” that started with a blend of earth-toned, cream pigments from MAC’s forthcoming lip palette in This Is Autumn, Red Statement, and Rich New Mood that she dabbed onto the tops of cheeks. “This makes it a little ruddier,” she said, layering on its Paint Stick in Deep Brown, which she also blended across lids. Skipping her signature contours, Tilbury kept the rest of the face simple, brushing brows up with MAC’s clear Brow Set and slicking a moisturizing lip balm onto mouths.