“Austere But Sensual” Dark Lips Strike Again, Backstage At Anthony Vaccarello
Hairstylist Anthony Turner gave himself a challenge for Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall show: “How can you make something elegant, cool?” he asked rhetorically backstage while prepping strands with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Snow Mousse. “[Showing] the neck gives you elegance,” he explained, gathering lengths into a mid-center ponytail that he roughed up with concentrated spritzes of its Texture Expert Fresh Dust Dry Shampoo before twisting them into a messy knot. As for the cool factor, that came from Turner’s technique that included pulling out soft wispy bits around the hairline that were set with its Elnett Hairspray. “I always want the hair to feel very organic,” Turner explained of the style’s ease. “It keeps it young, and spontaneous; anything too considered can feel old.”
And these girls were meant to look anything but old. “It’s a little bit more strict this season,” Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux said of Vaccarello’s typically sexed-up collections, which featured a black and white palette that weighed heavy on metallic embellishments this time around. To add an “austere but sensual” touch, Pecheux devised yet another variation on Fall’s favorite burgundy lip. “The dark lip is good for that” he said of the deep color’s contrasting effect while coating pouts with Lauder’s Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine, which he topped with a blend of its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture and its forthcoming Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Hot Lava. Its Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder in Transparent ensured mouths had a matte finish, which carried over to complexions as well. After initially hoping to leave the face just like that, Pecheux realized that models needed a molten eye to soften the hardness of the lip so they didn’t look like such “tough cookies.” Cue a double-time application of the Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture, which Pecheux painted across lids and underneath the lower lash line before blotting with the taupe-y shade from its Pure Color EyeShadow Duo in Vanilla Pods.
Skipping mascara and any semblance of contouring or blush, Pecheux did design a nail look here for the first time. To continue the “vino” color of lips and lids on tips, manicurist Christina Conrad used Lauder’s Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Bitter Sweet and Fallen Angel, which she accented with silver moons courtesy of its as-yet-unreleased varnish in Smoked Chrome.