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July 26 2014

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Backstage At Roberto Cavalli, “Tough, Boyish, Cool” Girls Still Reign

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The makeup artist job at Roberto Cavalli has been something of a revolving door of late. The past three seasons have seen three different face painters take the reins backstage at the show, although the ever-present Cavalli girl herself—who will not be parted from her black eyeliner—has made the transition of power a relatively seamless one. For Fall, Lucia Pieroni was tasked with bringing her own spin to the house’s “sexy, punky” vibe, which resulted in an “oily eye”—not to be confused with a greasy eye. “I’m bored of greasy eyes,” Pieroni admitted.

Rimming lids with a black kohl pencil, she blended MAC Eyeshadows in Black Tied, a shimmering onyx, and Carbon, a matte obsidian, into an elongated shape underneath the lower lash line and on top of the lids. Adding multiple swipes of its Haute & Naughty mascara close to the lash line, she etched a taupe-y pencil along the inside of the eye to open things up. Then came the oily effect, for which Pieroni slicked on a new MAC Pro Eye Gloss prototype in Black Sea, a high-shine, glitter-flecked cream-gel hybrid that she blended to sheer perfection just before models hit the runway. “You can plunk it on, which makes it really thick, like tar,” she said of the multitasking product, “or you can fade it out so it doesn’t get everywhere,” Pieroni laughed, anticipating the pigment’s inevitable sticky aftereffects, as she toned down lips and patted MAC’s fortcoming Cream Eyeshadow in Oyster, a shimmering pearl, on the top of models’ cheekbones for a luminescent highlight.

Guido Palau was honoring the “tough, boyish, cool girl” code that has long ruled here as well, via wet hair that was molded to models’ individual head shapes. Blow-drying strands with Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist and its forthcoming Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine Intense, Palau created severe center parts, which he flattened with his fingers and its Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray. “It has to be, like, a lot of it,” Palau stressed of the quantity of hairspray required to create the kind of reflective, damp surface he was after. “Using shine rather than dry [texture] feels much more luxurious to me right now,” he conceded of what has become one of his favorite looks for Fall—a sentiment that extended to the nails, which were given a clear, ultra-glossy finish courtesy of MAC Overlacquer.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / Gorunway.com

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