Beauty Gone Graphic, Backstage At Jil Sander
“Jil Sander is a modern-thinking designer,” Guido Palau pointed out backstage at Sander’s Fall show—just her second womenswear collection since returning to her namesake brand last year. As a result, it’s almost unheard of to find an inspiration board, littered with referential images of icons of yesteryear, backstage at one of the arch-minimalist’s presentations, which often leaves Palau with the more open-ended task of interpreting Sander’s “pure, simple aesthetic” into a corresponding hair look.
This season, he went with a graphic ponytail, adding color-matched extensions to models’ manes to create a uniform length that swept the mid-back. Layering generous amounts of Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong Gel in panels from the hairline to the nape of the neck, Palau gathered lengths with an elastic that he wrapped with a flattened section of hair. “You don’t want it to dry,” he explained of the technique that ensured strands were saturated to create a sleek, wet texture.
Pat McGrath used the opportunity to play with contours and shadow, keeping skin fresh and beautiful while creating an innovative eye shape in the process. “It’s literally in the socket and pulled out,” the makeup maestro explained of the warm gray cream pigment she brushed across the crease in a crescent shape that came to a soft point and then rejoined the outer corner of the eye. “Every girl is tailored,” McGrath elaborated, explaining that lids were primed if necessary to ensure that the neutral stroke of shadow showed up, although she erred on the side of caution to prevent an overly light, sixties effect. Taking down lips with a touch of concealer, McGrath curled lashes and left them bare while adding strength to the brows to effectively frame the face.