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April 20 2014

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Business In Front, Pony In Back, Backstage At Mary Katrantzou

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It was a tale of two looks at Mary Katrantzou for Fall—a sort of split personality that crept its way out of the collection and into the hair and makeup. The contrast of the formidable structure of certain garments and the occasional inclusion of flowing fabrics translated into a sharp, geometric, blunt fringe with a soft and supple ponytail that boasted plenty of movement. “I wanted a strong impact from the front, for when the girls walk down the catwalk, and then to have that juxtaposition with the loose, clean, and light ponytail at the back,” explained Wella Professionals’ global creative director, Eugene Souleiman. Relying on yards and yards of hair extensions, which, aided by a trusted assistant, he meticulously glued into models’ heads, Souleiman used scissors to do a little hand-sculpting himself. “It’s not for the work-shy,” the hairdresser said of the lengthy and intricate process.

Makeup artist Val Garland created something altogether softer but equally dramatic. “A pure, ghostly apparition” was the main part of Garland’s brief, which she achieved by using a forthcoming product from MAC: Super Gloss in Mother of Pearl. Keeping complexions relatively fair, Garland layered the white and highly reflective cream over lids to achieve an almost glow-in-the-dark effect before lining the inner rims of eyes with MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating, a pure white.

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