Faux Fringes and Fake Lashes Get Real, Backstage At Emilio Pucci
Using fake fringe on the runway can often go terribly wrong, mostly because the hair accessory usually looks, well, fake. But not when the task is left in the extremely capable hands of Luigi Murenu. Citing sixties-boho poster children like Marianne Faithfull and Jane Birkin backstage at Pucci, Murenu insisted that the heavy hairpieces he was individually beveling to frame each model’s face were “very now.” How so? The slight wave and artificial highlights he added gave the style an incredibly natural, lived-in, modern feel.
Prepping strands with Roux Fanci-Full Color Styling Mousse, which adds a temporary tint of auburn, flaxen, or chocolate to create raw contrast and texture, Murenu alternated between spritzes of John Frieda Refresh Dry Shampoo and L’Oréal Elnett hairspray to build a well-worn pieceyness through models’ lengths. Then came the bangs, which were precut and then shaped to fit individual foreheads. Coating his hands with Kérastase Elixir Ultime, Murenu slipped side sections behind the ears, leaving front pieces to hang down.
“We wanted to start again with her,” makeup artist Lisa Butler said of the Pucci girl we’re used to seeing here, who frequently relies on gloss and shine to make an impact. Not this season. Instead, Butler focused on incredibly mattified skin that was dusted entirely with MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Powder before turning her attention to eyes, which were rimmed with its Kohl Power Liner in Feline on the upper lash line, treated to a row of MAC 4 Lashes, and then lacquered with mascara. “It’s all black—there’s no visible flesh left,” Butler emphasized of where the lash line met the fringe, although she took care to subtly contrast lids with MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Stormy Pink, a sheer violet, which she topped with its Lipstick in Plum Dandy, a frosted lavender, “to bring it all back to life.” Lining the lower lash line with a neutral pencil to open things up a bit, Butler employed an old makeup-artist trick on lips, which she sculpted with short strokes of tawny-colored MAC Lip Pencils in Oat and Cork—drawing a quarter-inch line under the center of the lower lip, up the middle, on the Cupid’s bow, and just at the corners of the mouth. “Don’t join [the lines],” she stressed blending the etchings with the same Paint Pot to create a “more modern” beige lip before using both pencils to draw on a few spotty freckles. “It’s like they’re in Hoxton and you’ve dressed them in mad Oxfam clothing—we’re hoping they look like that,” Butler elaborated, adding Venus in Furs, the Leopold von Sacher-Masoch novella and the Velvet Underground song, to her pool of references. Never have a nude pout and heavy lash been so loaded (and, incidentally, lauded).