“Forties Brows” And “Bad Perms,” Backstage At Rochas
“Someone like Lee Miller” is who Lucia Pieroni was channeling backstage at Rochas, where it was all about that kind of “incredibly rich, well-kept woman that doesn’t even need to bother,” according to the makeup artist. The resulting beauty look was a slight departure from the hyper-feminized makeup that designer Marco Zanini typically orders up here, which reliably includes a standout lip. “We tried a lip,” Pieroni admitted, while using Clé de Peau Luminizing Face Enhancers in No. 11, a cool silver, and No. 12, a warm gold, to sculpt the skin, “but it made it too pretty, too lady—too retro,” she conceded. As an alternative, Pieroni deliberately eschewed mascara, eye liner, and blush in favor of a neutral-tinted lid that was stained with Clé de Peau’s Satin Eye Color in No. 208, a dark taupe-y brown, and a “forties brow,” courtesy of its eyebrow pencils. “The arch is much wider,” Pieroni explained of the decade’s specific brow shape, which registers slightly differently than the grooming techniques popular in the fifties or even eighties. “It makes them look a bit straight,” she elaborated.
Eugene Souleiman was less willing to pin the hair to a specific era when talking about what appeared, at first glance, to be a style reminiscent of forties-inspired waves. “It’d be Guy Bourdin-y in 1973 if it were done really well,” he maintained, careful to emphasize that he was not trying to produce yet another iteration of the big, soft, seventies-cum-forties ringlets we’ve seen so much of already this season. Instead, Souleiman maintained that he and Zanini wanted to pay tribute to Nicoletta Santoro, the Italian fashion editor and stylist who has played muse to Zanini before—and who happens to have “incredibly curly hair that she tries to tame but can’t,” according to the coiffeur. Creating an extra-deep side part, “almost like a comb-over,” Souleiman flat-ironed strands about a third of the way through the lengths before switching textures entirely. “It’s like a bob, with a bad perm,” he elaborated of the tightly wound loops that were wrapped around an iron through the ends and then “stretched out” to produce a looser wave with some deliberate frizz. “It’s not supposed to be particularly attractive,” he insisted, “because everything else is.”