Fred, Ginger, And A “Bejeweled Ear,” Backstage At Dries Van Noten
“There’s a Fred-and-Ginger theme,” Peter Philips revealed backstage at Dries Van Noten, explaining the designer’s nod to the thirties-era dance duo. Uninformed, and you’d have been hard-pressed to pick up on it. “We wanted to avoid [the makeup] becoming too ballroom,” Philips explained while beefing up brows with Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencils and contouring lids with the dark brown and nude colors from its Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad in Prelude—which is why he chose to complement the gem-encrusted necklaces, brooches, and earrings models wore on the runway with something unexpected. Instead of opting for more retro-glamour elements—a red lip or a heavy lash, for example—Philips gave nine girls “a bejeweled ear,” using special-effects adhesive and a treasure trove of different-shaped crystals. “We tried it on the face, but we’ve already seen that. Topolino did it in the eighties,” he said of the gleaming mosaic embellishments, referencing the legendary Italian face painter who made metal facial studs and mixing mediums something of a signature. Keeping skin purposely matte to “enhance the sparkle” of those creative crystal cuffs, Philips treated complexions to Chanel’s Perfection Lumière Long-Wear Flawless Fluid Makeup before dusting on an allover application of its Poudre Universelle Libre.
“It’s basically women wearing men’s clothes, and the end is more Hollywood,” Paul Hanlon elaborated of Van Noten’s collection. “But with Dries, it always needs a contemporary feel,” he continued, dampening hair with Bumble and Bumble Styling Lotion and fashioning a side-slung part that segued into a marcel wave across models’ foreheads. True to form, Hanlon insisted on pulling the waves apart just before the show to ensure a messy “as though she had [the style] a week ago” feel. Perfection often lies in the imperfections when this hairstylist is concerned.