“Hair Architecture” And A Modern Smoky Eye, Backstage At Donna Karan
“The set is major,” Eugene Souleiman pointed out of the scene at Donna Karan’s Fall show, which featured a sculpture created by her late husband, the artist Stephan Weiss. Its presence was part of an overall return to what makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury called “the Donna Karan DNA,” but it inspired Souleiman in a quite literal way. “It gave me the idea to do something architectural. This is hair architecture, really,” he said of the conical ponytails he designed for the occasion.
Separating a section of hair in the center of the head, Souleiman created an internal ponytail. This was bound with twine before he added a blunt-cut, rounded extension to the base, which he covered with the remaining hair. “We wanted something that was very iconic—new classicism,” he continued of the look that he thought had a dominatrix, “ready-to-wear meets couture” sensibility to it. “There’s a subtlety, though,” he insisted, pointing out that from the front, you just see a hair-sprayed, slicked-back updo, but when you see it from the side, “you go, whoa!”
Tilbury was going for high impact from all angles with the “really greasy” smoky eye she built using MAC Paint Pot in Blackground topped with a swipe of Elizabeth Arden Eight-Hour Cream. “It’s a Peter Lindbergh kind of girl, with a modern twist,” she surmised, contouring cheeks with MAC Sculpting Cream in Copper Beach and highlighting the high planes of the face with its sheer, shimmery Cream Colour Base in Luna. Lips were left nude with a finger-pressing of its Lipstick in Fleshpot.