Kate Bush-Caliber “Ethereal” Beauty, Backstage At Rick Owens
There’s something inexplicably thrilling about a Rick Owens show—and we’re not referring to the production heroics of last season’s foam-waterfall backdrop that cascaded onto the runway, specifically, although that’s certainly part of the allure. (This season, Owens used wind machines and fog to sufficiently set the mood.) It’s more of the highly considered way the designer approaches his craft and his sense of showmanship, which affects every single aspect of his work. “The architectural style of Rick goes from the clothes to the hair,” Owens’ longtime coiffing collaborator, Luigi Murenu, said backstage, elaborating on the “homage to lightness” he was creating with a trio of brand-new BaByliss crimping irons. “It’s instant magic,” he continued of the style that relied on clean, product-free hair and brushed-out ridges, which allowed Murenu to get a texture similar to the incredibly graphic wigs he carved out for Spring, with a whole new level of movement, particularly when the wind machines intermingled with strands at the beginning of the runway. “Kate Bush would be in heaven,” he effused.
Lucia Pieroni did her part by swirling a synthetic brush with coordinating swipes of MAC Full Coverage Foundation in W10 and White and blending it all over models’ faces to essentially block out their features and create a certain sense of transparency. Using an opaque powder to get a “matte whiteness” in the middle of the face and around the eyes—”sort of like goggles,” she explained—Pieroni rubbed MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Pure White with the fleshy Painterly between her fingers and applied the neutral mixture to lashes and brows to eliminate them as well. “We want it to be see-through,” she explained of her endgame, while taking down lips with its Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Camel Coat, a tawny shade of grayish taupe. “They’re basically ethereal beings underneath all this hair.”