Linda Cantello Does Her “Thing,” Backstage At Giorgio Armani
“There’s a lot of lip going around,” Giorgio Armani international makeup artist Linda Cantello said backstage at the designer’s Fall show. She’s certainly not wrong. The crimson and berry pouts that gained momentum in New York and London have really hit their stride in Milan, turning up everywhere from Fendi and Antonio Marras to Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Marni. “The collection is very ‘garçonne,’ so he didn’t want too much makeup,” Cantello explained of Mr. Armani’s boyish tailoring with a slight 1930s air. “But I’ve still got to get my thing in there.”
Cantello’s “thing” included a beautiful play on shaded contouring, as though all that remained on models’ faces were the aftereffects of stronger pigments that were once there. “I wanted a cold color,” she elaborated of the custom lip concoction she whipped up for the occasion—literally; Cantello had a small Pyrex dish filled with a deep pigment she had hand-mixed to achieve the exact right clear, vampy purple hue with a brown base. Blending together a few shades of Armani’s forthcoming Rouge Ecstasy lipstick line, which she turned even more sheer with the addition of some gloss, Cantello pressed the color onto models’ mouths so it subtly stained them a lighter shade of its Nail Lacquer in Night Viper, which varnished tips and will launch as part of the brands full polish line-up come October. “Imagine if they came out with super-dark, Clara Bow lips—it would be awful!” she pointed out of the importance of the transparency. Restraint ruled on lids too, which were sculpted through the crease with elongated swipes of the gray and taupe-y brown shadows from Armani’s Eyes to Kill palettes in #1 and #4. “It’s like character makeup,” Cantello said of the effect, which worked well with the heavy black fringe hairstylist Franco Gobbi affixed to sleek topknots and arranged beneath a series of hats, not to mention models’ perfected skin that had been primed with Armani’s standout Maestro Fusion Makeup and mattified with its Luminous Silk Powder in No. 2.
No mascara and well-groomed “statement brows” completed the look, which was, in a way, very similar to what we’ve been seeing in Milan. Reconceived by Cantello, however, it got a whole lot more mileage.