“Punky” In Purple, Backstage At Fendi
The mulberry mouth that dominated the Fall 2012 shows is having a bit of a resurgence this season, although it’s popping up in a few unexpected variations. “Kiki de Montparnasse. That was the reference for the lip,” Peter Philips said of the burnt-purple pouts he masterminded backstage at Fendi, explaining that the vampy jazz-age Parisian artist and muse served as a good starting point for the conceptualization of “a retro element that at the same time looked punky.”
Keeping skin matte with Chanel Pro Lumière Professional Finish Makeup and a dusting of its Poudre Universelle Libre, Philips concentrated his attention on an equally powdery pout, which he coated with its Rouge Allure Velvet in La Provocante. “The brows are strong because there is nothing on the lids,” he continued, brushing up arches and grooming them with Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencils before lacquering nails with a complementary shade of Le Vernis de Chanel in Vendetta, a rich blackened aubergine.
Sam McKnight was going for a similar edge. “Punk’s an idea that has been floating around,” the hairstylist confirmed of one of the season’s reigning themes, which led him to prep strands with Pantene Pro-V Deep Moisture Soufflé before weaving a ridged, Mohawk-inspired braid. “Karl [Lagerfeld] loves a graphic shape,” McKnight continued of the creative process that evolved to include spray-painted fox-fur headpieces pinned to the top of models’ coifs to add an embellished element to the silhouette. Finishing the look with a mist of Oribe Superfine Hair Spray, McKnight left the length of his plaits varied—on purpose. “I love all the bobs,” he effused of the bevy of short haircuts models like Daria Strokous, Kel Markey, and Karlie Kloss brought to the casting. “I feel it’s a little old-fashioned to have everyone have the same hair for a show, anyway.”