“Wet” Hair And “Undone” Makeup, Backstage At Prada
As catwalking legends including Mariacarla Boscono, nineties grunge icon Kirsten Owen, and even Victoria’s Secret Angel Adriana Lima moved about the crowded backstage area at Prada among a host of their younger, greener peers, Guido Palau stated the obvious about their hair. “It’s…wet basically,” the Redken creative consultant laughed, motioning toward the damp, stringy strands in his midst. “The clothes are superrich, so we wanted to break that,” he elaborated of the texture that was side-parted or pushed straight back, depending on the girl. “The ultimate ease is wet, just-out-of-the-shower hair. I mean, how chic is that?”
Applying copious amounts of Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam mousse, Palau was going for a deliberate disheveledness—or “nonchalance,” as he called it—which offset the luxe, 1940s, almost twisted quality of Miuccia Prada’s Fall collection. Snipping a few inches off of models’ ends with a layering technique to make sure there were no blunt lines, Palau polished on an extra slick of Redken’s forthcoming Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine across lengths to get a positively damp finish. “It’s sexy—and a little melancholy,” he surmised.
Makeup artist Pat McGrath fleshed out the story line a bit more. “We were obsessed with the contrast of rich and poor,” she said, stressing the word “undone” when describing the beautiful burgundy-stained mouths she was drawing in darker toward the center of models’ lips and then diffusing outward with a clear balm. “It’s the shadow of formerly amazing makeup,” she continued of what were essentially traces of pigment, including a gray tone on lids, that were used to mimic the animated shadows of tiny-waisted women (and cats) that had been projected onto the walls of Mrs. Prada’s runway. When asked about the growing prevalence of slate and asphalt smoky shadows this season, instead of more standard black incarnations, McGrath admitted that they’re not the easiest colors to wear. “It needs to be transparent to give it more depth,” she said, adding a greasy shine with “tons” of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream as well as multiple licks of mascara on top and bottom lashes.