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April 23 2014

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Val Garland Gives Good Gloss, Backstage At Giambattista Valli

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Fashion month is a great place for beauty brands to put prototypes in the hands of their artists, to get the kind of professional feedback needed to make any tweaks before products go to market. So far, we’ve seen a few new launches we’re anticipating with more than a little enthusiasm, including Redken’s Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine, which Guido Palau has frequently relied on to get Fall’s popular shiny, wet finish; Estée Lauder’s dark burgundy Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Hot Lava that Tom Pecheux debuted at Anthony Vaccarello; and the six new cream blushes—with matching lipsticks!—that Chanel plans on launching this summer (more on that in a bit). But we might be most excited about the MAC Pro Eye Gloss in Black Sea and Mother of Pearl that Val Garland used backstage at Giambattista Valli.

We first spotted the darker color of the buildable, glitter-flecked shine at Roberto Cavalli, where Lucia Pieroni was using it to add a “sexy, punky” feeling to the show’s requisite black smoky eye. Garland came up with a similarly innovative way to employ the multifunctional polish with an impressive glisten. “It’s a bit of nothing, but it’s also everything,” she said of the “cellophane simplicity” she managed to achieve by dipping an acrylic artist’s brush into the flat pot of product and swiping a squared-off strip from the outside of models’ eyes toward their temples and along the cupid’s bow of their lips. “We were actually going to do a red lip here, but it made the collection look ordinary,” she revealed, opting for something extraordinarily subtle instead. “It’s got a good stick on it, so it doesn’t move,” Garland continued of the gloss—which is a good thing to remember if you make a mad dash to procure one when it launches next year: It works best with the kind of “lacquered, no-hair-out-of-place” hair Orlando Pita fashioned for Valli’s presentation.

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