Wigging Out, Backstage At Jean Paul Gaultier
If you had a slight feeling of déjà vu upon seeing the spiky black wigs marching down Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway in additional shades of auburn, chestnut, and platinum blond, your mind was playing tricks on you. “It’s like a toupee or a bang,” Guido Palau said of the “patchwork” effect he was hoping to achieve with the deliberately cheap-looking hairpieces here, which were not to be confused with the similarly choppy, high-end crops he hand-dyed and -cut for Marc Jacobs last month. “A lot of people want to see short hair this season and most girls don’t want to cut it,” Palau explained of his recent reliance on wigs, which offer a temporary solution to the predicament. “It’s supposed to look like a girl’s hair that is colored and grown out,” he elaborated of the faux trims here that were meant to deliberately contrast with models’ natural strands where they met as a flat panel in the back. There was a slight nod to the eighties-era androgynous stunner Leslie Winer, although Palau was content to speak to the style’s “punky, boyish, concert-y” quality, which he fashioned using Redken Control Addict 28 High Control Hairspray.
“The brows really help balance it out,” he said of the way Lloyd Simmonds’ “masculine, yet feminine” makeup look complemented his coifs. “There’s a really dark frame to the face, so we needed a dark frame to the girl’s personality. You get a personality with a brow,” Simmonds explained, using a matte black eye shadow to fill in arches while keeping the skin fresh and glowing with YSL’s La Teint Touche Éclat Illuminating Foundation, and a little pressed powder to reduce the risk of shine. A light dusting of blush in shades of light rose and warm gold—”whatever looks good with [the girls'] skin tone”—finished the face.