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August 22 2014

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Hand-Painted Hair and “Futuristic” Makeup, Backstage at Alexis Mabille Haute Couture

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Alexis-Mabille-Backstage-Beauty-Haute-CoutureHairstyles that are created to complement a collection’s clothes often turn out better than those that introduce an entirely new theme or idea; hairstyles that are created with a collection’s clothes often turn out even better. “It’s Boldini, but modern and more abstract,” Odile Gilbert said backstage at Alexis Mabille referencing the Italian painter whose flowing brushstrokes guided much of Mabille’s Couture designs—including those that made their way on top of models’ heads. “They’re flowers,” Gilbert explained of the pieces of hand-painted tulle that she took from select dresses and shellacked onto a Mexican-style head-wrapping technique that required copious amounts of professional-grade gel. “It’s a lot of work,” she admitted, combing product through panels of hair to create a sleek base for the fabric appliqués-turned-hair-accessories.

To keep it all from skewing too romantic—and to add a “touch of the futuristic” to the equation—makeup artist Carole Colombani dusted a mix of MAC Blush in Prism and its Sculpting Powder in Sculpt high onto the cheekbones and along the temples, cutting the light pink color with a sheer wash of its matte white Eye Shadows in Gesso and Blanc Type that extended from the outer corners of models’ lids. Then, mixing MAC Pigment in Silver with its Mixing Medium to create a molten-pewter effect, Colombani traced just the inner corners of the upper lash line with the metallic hue that was revisited on nails in the form of Essie’s No Place Like Chrome polish, which was dotted with alabaster moons. And lest you forget this was a Haute Couture beauty look, not your average ready-to-wear affair, false lashes upped the glamour quotient while lips were individualized per girl, using a blend of MAC Lipmixes in Fuchsia, Midtone Nude, and White.

Photo: Getty Images

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