August 21 2014

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A Study in Restraint, Backstage at Jil Sander


Jil Sander“There’s no period—it’s totally now and totally her,” hairstylist Guido Palau said of the look at Jil Sander. Hair was blown out with Redken Satinwear 02 for smoothness, and a deep side part was made with fingers (in lieu of a comb, which forms a hard line). After glossing over the surface with All Soft Argan-6 Oil, he pulled the length back into a low, loose ponytail and secured it with a black elastic. “A chignon would be too lady; [the pony] keeps it young yet pulled together,” he explained. After the models were dressed, Palau loosened a few pieces in front to form a “mesh” over the side of the face, introducing an element of fragility and ease to an otherwise stark style.

The minimal makeup created by Pat McGrath entailed only the basics: foundation, pinky-peach blusher, brown mascara on the top lashes, a blend of taupe-colored cream and powder shadows washed around the eyes, and lip balm. The only true “pronouncement” was the brows. “We’re not forcing a shape or a character—just enhancing,” she said of defining models’ arches. A touch of highlighter was added to the lids and inner corners of the eyes for a subtle and sophisticated glow.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde /

Backstage Reviews