Backstage at Donna Karan: Bohemian Rhapsody
Although there were plenty of supermodels of the moment on the premises (Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, and Hilary Rhoda to name just three), the hair and makeup was inspired by originals like Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton. “I haven’t updated [their look] that much, I’ve got to be honest,” said face painter Charlotte Tilbury. She mixed two MAC Face and Body Foundation shades to warm up the skin, applied a burnt amber blush across the cheeks, and used a large, fluffy brush to dust Mineralize Skinfinish Natural powder on the temples and points of the face where the sun would naturally hit. The lids were lined with Eye Kohl in Teddy, and a bronze-gold cream shadow was washed around the eyes. To get spiky, seventies fringe, Tilbury curled it “up, up, up,” and then coated each individual lash on top and bottom with a combo of two mascaras—Opulash to build volume, and Haute & Naughty over top to set. The lip color was a blend of beigy pink lipstick and russet-colored gloss.
In contrast to the grungy and raw textures we’ve seen this week, the sleek and straight strands created by Eugene Souleiman were refreshingly minimalist and clean. Since he wanted the hair to “fly,” it was free of styling products—with the exception of hair spray on the pinned-back piece in front. After blowing hair dry with a round brush to stretch and smooth the cuticle, Souleiman ran a flatiron from roots to ends. He used the pointed tip of a rattail comb to devise a section from forehead to crown that was the exact width of the metal barrette and then proceeded to divide it into thinner layers, each doused in hair spray and flattened against the head using a small bristle brush and blow-dryer with a concentrated nozzle. Finally, the simple yet graphic accessory was snapped into place. The end result was easy, sexy, and glamorous.