Backstage at Marc Jacobs: Blonds That Break All The Rules
If you looked at the models at Marc Jacobs and thought, “Did they plop a bowl on their heads and take a pair of scissors to their hair?” you were on the right track. To achieve the uniformity the designer requested, hairstylist Guido Palau fitted models with blond wigs dyed by Victoria Hunter at Whittemore House Salon in New York City, then went at them with scissors and razors. The references for the choppy style: surfers, Los Angeles, and kids who cut their own hair. To add texture, he dressed strands with Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray.
François Nars also set out to make the girls appear more “interesting” than pretty, “characters” over classic beauties. “I’m bored to death with the healthy look,” he explained, using only NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer on the face. The eyes are where he added the edge, rimming the upper and lower waterlines with either the Eyeliner Pencil in Kalisté (a darkened teal) or Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Blue Dahlia (a cobalt shade launching for the holiday season)—adding a small “slash” of color to the inner and outer corners to finish. The final touch was “tons” of black mascara.
And while manicurist Marian Newman insisted that the squared-off tips coated in a specially created color (Bark!—available for summer 2014) of Enamored Hi-Shine Lacquer from Marc Jacobs Beauty were not French in style, the tiny jet-black crystals lined along the free edge certainly said otherwise. “The whole point [of this manicure] is that it’s all a little bit wrong—it’s Spring/Summer and we’re using a grungy brown.” I suppose I never expected to see a look that was in step with the rest of the week; after all, this is a man who sets the trends.