Backstage at Proenza Schouler: Come As You Are
The underlying beauty theme at Proenza Schouler: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. For hairstylist Paul Hanlon, that meant adding a central—but not perfect—part and keeping the gentle fuzz intact at the top of the head. “What you’d normally control, we’re not,” he said. Since the show was in the morning this season, Hanlon didn’t have to worry about product buildup; instead, he used Fekkai Glossing Conditioner (normally rinsed out) as a leave-in treatment and applied Coiff Controle Ironless Straightening Balm from mid-length through to the ends to weigh down strands. (His inspiration for the lank look came from Dogtown and Z-Boys, a documentary about a posse of seventies skater and surfer boys in California, and photographer Joseph Szabo’s book Teenage.) He then blew hair dry with fingers, as a brush would make it too even, and flat-ironed the underlayers around the ears and nape of the neck to eliminate volume, leaving the texture on the surface untouched.
Makeup artist Diane Kendal took an even more minimal approach, brushing brows up and filling them in only when necessary, and curling the lashes but not adding mascara. MAC Lip Conditioner (a clear balm) was used on both lips and lids for a hint of shine, while Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder was dusted on the T-zone to mattify. The only color on the face was Pleasure Model Extra Dimension Blush (available spring/summer 2014), which Kendal tapped onto the apples of the cheeks with her fingertips. “We’re keeping the girls as they are,” she said. Refreshing.