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July 23 2014

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Eye Spy Electric Blue at Marc by Marc Jacobs

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marcbymarcThe look at Marc by Marc was characterized by a single—but colorful—gesture, explained makeup artist Dick Page. He disregarded trends and even the palette of the collection, citing only David Bowie as a reference. “It’s just a lop of color on the eye,” he stated rather matter-of-factly. To create this graphic blue block, he started by applying Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice in a crescent shape with a brush—placing it along the lash line from inner to outer corner and filling in the lid. He followed this same pattern with a powder formula in Curacao, a shade from the Limited Edition Eye Color Bar, using a “windshield wiper” motion to lay down the pigment and diffuse the edges. “When the model is looking directly at you, I only wanted you to see a halo of color,” he said. Any fallout was cleaned up before applying a light layer of foundation, and lips were left bare, save for a moisturizing balm.

Guido Palau created an equally simplistic hairstyle with a bit of rock ‘n’ roll edge. He started by prepping damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02, and blew the hair straight and flat to the head. To add a bend, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron—starting midlength and leaving the ends out. Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine was glossed over the top to add weight. “I wanted the hair to feel lank—not flyaway, floaty, or romantic,” said Palau. After misting all over with hairspray, he tucked strands behind the ears and wrapped a silk scarf around the neck (a technique we saw earlier in the week at Thakoon) to add back a bit of “natural movement.” And while some of the girls had a black or cream scarf incorporated into their looks on the runway, “as if they had caught their hair in it,” he explained, the accessory was removed from the rest of the models before hitting the catwalk.

If you were wondering what shade was slicked on nails, it was Jacobs’ favorite color, of course: Shiny (i.e., clear).

Photos: Ivan Lattuada / Indigitalimages.com

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