August 22 2014

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Getting Back to the Basics: Backstage at Thakoon


thakoonMakeup artist Diane Kendal revealed that the designer was revisiting the classics for Spring 2014 (with delicate pearls and jewels sprinkled throughout the collection), so she kept the look simple, with the exception of exaggerated, seventies-inspired lashes. “We did the mascara like that to give [the models] a little something, without making too much of a statement,” said the face painter. To achieve the thick and spidery fringe, the top lashes were curled and coated with at least three coats of NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara. For an ethereal glow, Kendal used a light-coverage foundation to even skin tone and NARS Matte Multiple in Cappadoce (launching this spring) underneath the cheekbones, for a subtle contour, as well as on the inner corners of the eyes. Another all-in-one stick, this time in Anguilla, was used on the apples of the cheeks, for a fresh finish, and the lips were topped off with the same formula in Laos to add a hint of natural color and shine.

The hair, created by Odile Gilbert, was less pristine and precious—and inspired by Look Eight from the show (where a pearl-strap bag was wrapped around the model’s neck). After making a messy side part, she applied Kérastase Mousse Bouffante throughout and blow-dried hair, using her hands in lieu of a brush—twisting pieces as she went along. Laque Dentelle hair spray was misted all over before large sections were wrapped around a curling iron that was held vertically—this technique produces less volume, Gilbert explained. To lend texture and a matte finish, Powder Bluff (a dry shampoo) was spritzed throughout. An elastic string was then wrapped twice over the hair and around the neck to create a slight bend—and the cord was snipped just before models hit the runway. “We wanted the hair to enhance the shape of the neck and frame the shoulders,” she said. If you can’t get your hands on one of Panichgul’s extra-long bead-strap bags, opt for this backstage beauty trick to create the face-framing effect instead—your wallet will thank you later.


Backstage Reviews