Reined-in Glamour at Roberto Cavalli
Similar to Donatella Versace last night, yet another designer known for excess—Roberto Cavalli—opted for simplicity when it came to beauty, juxtaposing beaded gowns, metallic fabrics, and snakeskin with pared-down hair and makeup. “Anything that looks like you’ve tried feels old; the not-caring theme is what makes it sexy,” said mane master Guido Palau. (Music to my ears, and to those of you whose styling skills are subpar.) To get the laid-back—but still polished—look the designer desired, Palau used his finger to make a messy center part, then tucked hair behind the ears. To add an element of control, he flattened the top section close to the scalp using Redken Shine Flash 02 and anchored strands in place with Fashion Work 12 (a hair spray). For girls with straighter textures, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron and raked through waves with his hands for natural bend and movement.
The makeup was equally as “raw,” face painter Diane Kendal said—a term she’s used a lot this season. After applying a light-coverage foundation, she smoothed MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Copper Beech under the cheekbones to gently contour the face. Casual Colour in Keep It Loose (a warm pinky-peach shade) was tapped on the apples and topped with Extra Dimension Blush in Pleasure Model to intensify the color. Kendal used a brush to run Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut in the crease of the eye and layered it with Copper Beech, blending the pigments with her fingertips to eliminate any harsh lines. Black cream liner was worked just along and in between the top lashes for definition. Sparkle Shadow in Tender Moon was then dusted over lids to make them appear wet (minus the gloppy grease so often used to achieve the effect), while lips were slicked with the Velvetease Lip Pencil in Mattely in Love for a non-shiny finish. To lend a “sweaty feel” to the face, Kendal patted Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré onto the surface of the skin.
To pick up on the silver thread running throughout the collection, Keri Blair mixed MAC Discothèque and Girl Trouble Nail Lacquers with Overlacquer (a top coat) to dilute the opaque polishes and create a sheer and shimmery “essence.” “It’s like mixing a clear gloss with lipstick,” she said of the process. The theme of Spring 2014 still remains the same (at least thus far): Less truly is more.