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July 25 2014

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Sporty But Still Smoldering, Backstage At Gucci

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Sex appeal is always expected backstage at Gucci, but this season, creative director Frida Giannini requested that face painter Pat McGrath and hair guru Luigi Murenu take a more athletic approach. “She wanted something sporty but still made up,” McGrath explained. In lieu of harsh pencils, a shimmery, golden-brown shadow was gently wrapped around the eyes—with the outer corners intensified in a sideways “V” shape for definition. To incorporate the copper shade that was threaded throughout the collection, McGrath added the same hue to the center of lids, working the pigment from the lash line up toward the crease. The top lashes were curled and coated with black-brown mascara, arches were filled in, and lips were left natural, with the exception of a clear balm for moisture. To add warmth, the makeup artist opted for a foundation—instead of often heavy and cake-y bronzers—one to two shades darker than each model’s complexion, blending it from apple to temple. A combo of cream and powder highlighters placed on cheekbones and brow bones lent a dewy effect to skin, and a touch of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream was applied to lids right before the models hit the runway for extra sheen.

Murenu created a style that played on the theme but was still “glam and exceptional.” To give hair oomph, he applied Kérastase Lift Vertige to roots and Mousse Bouffant throughout before blow-drying—using either a round brush or his fingers to add volume from forehead to crown. Once strands were dry, he wrapped small sections from the mid-length down around a curling iron to form loose waves. Murenu scraped the hair off the face with Elixir Ultime for Colour Treated Hair and worked it through to the ends for texture and shine that didn’t appear wet, greasy, or limp. “In my mind, I imagined Lauren Hutton going for a jog in the seventies,” he said. A few spritzes of Gloss Appeal were misted over top to finish. I might be more inclined to exercise if, at the end of it, I walked away looking as fabulous as a Gucci girl.

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