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Who Run the World? Girls…Backstage at Prada

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PradaIt was all about rebellion this season at Prada—whether that concept was translated through application, texture, or color. “The look is simple, but there’s a darker thought to it,” said hairstylist Guido Palau. “These girls aren’t sweet and innocent, there’s a ganglike mentality to them.”

All thirty-nine models were separated into packs according hair color—a task taken on by British dye master Josh Wood, flown in less than forty-eight hours before the big event. “We’ve taken away what you’d normally add to color, like highlights and depth, as the idea is to create an illustration of a girl—[similar to] how you would draw or paint hair,” said Palau. To execute Mrs. Prada’s vision, Wood “antiqued” brown, black, blond, and red hues to lend a “singularity” to the varying tones. And while the end result was “flat,” it wasn’t lifeless. “This is [an example of] quietness in color at its highest volume,” said Wood, who went on to explain that the catwalk concept translates to the real world in the form of simpler dye jobs that are just as contemporary as their more complicated counterparts. Styling was far less of a process: Palau spritzed damp strands with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam, made a severe side part, and swept the front section low over the forehead—letting the length air-dry or using a blow-dryer and just his fingers to add movement.

Face painter Pat McGrath played up the “women in revolt” theme by leaving the skin raw (save for spot coverage with concealer), dabbing moisturizer on cheeks and clear balm onto lips. The eyes are where the real action was: She used the Temptu Airbrush Makeup System to “graffiti lids with anti-eye-shadow colors” such as muted blue, green, purple, orange, and yellow. “It’s a new medium for me,” McGrath said of the high-tech spray gun. “I’m creating imperfect makeup using a perfecting tool.” Brows were bleached to allow the scrawl across the crease to take center stage.

When it came to hair—whether it was above the eyes or on the head—the girls weren’t left with much choice. “No color, no show,” Wood said of the parameters surrounding the casting. But what model would let a little thing like a major shade change stand in her way of walking Miuccia’s runway?

Photo: Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com

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