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July 26 2014

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Golden Girls Go Boho, Backstage at Emilio Pucci

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“Peter doesn’t like makeup.” It’s a tale we’ve heard before of the artistic director. This season, however, he wanted to “do something fun,” noted makeup artist Yadim. Pulling inspiration from the brocade (Look 43) and beaded pieces in the collection, he crafted a “modern-day Veruschka,” using a gold powder that he wet before gilding the forehead of ten select girls. “That’s where that desert warrior woman comes in,” he said of the metallic treatment. The majority of models were kept rather natural in comparison: MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl was tapped onto the high planes of the face, a taupe shade was used to gently contour, and a beige shadow was washed across the lids and blended up into the brows before a shimmery brown lipstick was layered on top for shine. To provide definition, a black pencil was drawn along the water line, but not smudged. “This is very precise and strict,” the pro emphasized. Lashes were left bare and cheeks were flushed with Ladyblush, a cream formula, to help the girls “look alive.”

Dundas may have proposed a pony, but for mane master Luigi Murenu your standard tail simply wouldn’t do. To lend a “rock ‘n’ roll” vibe that still felt romantic, he worked Kérastase Mousse Bouffante through strands before blow-drying, then wrapped hair loosely around a one-inch curling iron, leaving the ends out. After the texture was in place, he divided the length into three sections and made a short, low plait. “One, two, and done,” he said, crossing the pieces over one another before tying it off with a band. “There are a lot of collars [in the collection], and this can be tucked inside,” he explained, pointing to the barely-there braid. With Eva Herzigova waiting for him at his station, he succinctly summed up the “strong identity” of the Emilio Pucci woman for Fall 2014: “She’s got a chic bohemian feeling, but she’s no hippie.” That much we know for sure.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com

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