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July 22 2014

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Alluring Androgyny, Backstage at Jason Wu

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jason-wuThe look at Jason Wu is always glamorous, but the gold glitter sprinkled across lids last season gave way to a more subdued—but strong—brow and a flat “boyish” bun for Fall 2014. “It’s a feminine/masculine look,” said mane master Odile Gilbert.

“This is something new for him—we’ve never done messed-up [hair] before,” explained Gilbert. The sides were kept “tight” (slicked back with Kérastase Touche Perfection), but she allowed for “movement” on top. In back, she pulled the length up into a chignon, but not in the traditional sense—sections were wound and secured to form a tight mass of hair. “There are about fifty hairpins in there,” she added. “The idea is to make it as small as possible…you don’t know where it starts and finishes.”

Makeup artist Diane Kendal “enhanced all the girls’ natural features” with a light coverage foundation, and contoured their faces with the bronze shade in Lancôme’s Blush Subtil Palette in Rose Flush—dusting it underneath the cheekbones and in the banana of the eyes. The pink hue was placed on the apples of the cheeks, while a pearly highlighter was applied to the tops of cheekbones and lightly across the lids. Black liner was worked into the roots of lashes for definition before fringe was subsequently curled. Kendal’s focus remained on the arches, which were filled in with a powder in the same tone as each model’s hair so that they “didn’t overtake the face.” She also slightly elongated the brows to create the “illusion of them being straighter,” she said. A combo of balm and foundation on lips rounded out the boy-meets-girl maquillage.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde, Indigitalimages.com

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