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August 28 2014

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A Beach Day in the Midst of a Blizzard, Backstage at Proenza Schouler

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proenzaThe surfer girl reemerged backstage for Proenza Schouler’s Fall 2014 show—but not in the matte, dreaded, ocean-soaked sense. Hair pro Paul Hanlon tried that look at one of the multiple tests, but with the “acid colors” and “insane prints” it was ultimately “too much going on.” So he decided on something cleaner, but not “robotic.” Seeing as models’ strands were already doused with a considerable amount of product from a full day of shows, Hanlon misted hair with Bumble and Bumble Prep before putting in deep side parts and sweeping it behind the ears, bending the mid-lengths and ends ever so slightly over an iron. After his backstage team made each girl look perfect, Hanlon “destroyed” the style at the last minute, breaking it down with Brilliantine (a polishing cream), pulling out bits, and artfully crafting flyaways. “My fingers take the edge off, almost like they had a little hat on,” he said.

Diane Kendal provided a dewy sheen by applying moisturizer under and over any base products. The makeup pro then dabbed brown “grease” on the lids and lower lash lines before removing it with more moisturizer and a cotton swab, leaving behind a subtle residue. MAC Cremeblend Blush in Posey was tapped onto the apples of the cheeks, and lips were slicked with Siss (for girls with darker complexions) or toned down with foundation. Lashes were curled, but not coated with mascara—an aesthetic choice we’ve seen Kendal and other artists make multiple times this week. The reasoning: “Not doing mascara is more modern; as soon as you apply it, lashes look pedestrian.” I’ll consider giving my go-to tube a day off.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com

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