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July 24 2014

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Double Liner Docks at Dior Resort

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Peter Philips’ inaugural backstage voyage as the creative and image director for Dior beauty started out with a relative bang—sixty-six models, branded water taxis, and Manahattanites floating across the East River en masse. (It’s not exactly the Seine, but if you close your eyes and hum a few bars of “La Vie en Rose,” you could almost pretend you were in Paris instead of on your way to Brooklyn.)

“There is an expression of scarves [in the clothes] and there’s a lot of movement when the girls walk, but the shapes are very graphic when they’re static,” noted the makeup artist. To mimic Raf Simons’ sharp aesthetic, Philips used the brand’s forthcoming It-Line Eye-Liner in It-Black (out in June), carefully etching the liquid formula straight across the upper lash line and running a parallel band along the bottom lashes, dragging it out just past the outer corners of the eyes to exaggerate their size. Next, Philips topped the liquid with a matte ebony powder from the 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Bar (on shelves in August), making the lines slightly softer and significantly more stay-put. Pearly pink and white shadows from the same palette were employed as highlights (the pink on the lid and the white between the lines on the outer corners), and complexions were kept equally matte and luminous courtesy of the house’s new Diorskin Star Foundation (available in September). The final touch for many of the models was a dramatic strip of false lashes—a concept that seems to have carried over from the Fall 2014 season. “It’s not a big makeup statement, but it’s a look that fits with all sixty-six girls and makes them stronger,” he said.

As for the lack of Resort-like brights, Philips noted that the “steady line” that runs throughout the entire collection is black and any color seemed to clash. “It’s Raf’s version of Resort, so it’s a bit more strict,” he laughed. In any event, if you’re taking a cruise to BK, I’d say a dark and edgy eye is the way to go.

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hanne

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