For obvious reasons, liquid liner isn’t typically part of our poolside beauty regimen, but the Spring ’15 swim collections in Miami have us reconsidering. Yesterday we spotted “underliner” at Mara Hoffman, where models wore virtually no makeup save for a swipe of seafoam along their lower lashes. We noticed the trend again at Minimale Animale, where the look was decidedly more graphic. Thick, chalky streaks were painted below the pupils, then extended out into thick, upward-arching wings. We’ve always rimmed our waterlines with a white or nude pencil to wake up red or tired eyes, but this takes the concept to a whole new level. A touch of black mascara on the top lashes added to the fresh effect. Next time we hit the beach—or perhaps on mornings when caffeine just isn’t cutting it—we’ll be reaching for a waterproof formula (like Make Up For Ever Aqua Liner in Diamond White) and road-testing this instant, eye-opening trick.
If the Spring 2015 swim week collections in Miami this past weekend were any indication, it’s time to seriously step up our poolside beauty game. Our three favorite looks—seen at Clover Canyon, RVCA, and Mara Hoffman—put our lazy topknots and ponytails to shame. At RVCA (center), models teamed their barely-there bikinis and high-tops with inverted, braided pigtails (a look that we’ve seen on the red carpet as well).
Mara Hoffman’s girls (right) sported plaits, too—but their look was all about “epic,” undone volume inspired by Guatemalan jungle warriors. Catwalk by TIGI global creative director Nick Irwin began by gluing double wefts of extensions from ear to ear for added fullness (although anyone with long, thick hair can re-create the look sans faux strands). After parting hair down the middle, he added soft waves with a large curling iron and brushed them out for a “candy-flossy” texture. Next, he gathered hair at the nape of the neck and braided only the bottom 3 inches—either in one single plait or two mini pigtails—and wrapped single palm fronds around the ends. The final touch was a thick swipe of emerald eyeliner on lower lash lines, which picked up on the electric hues in Hoffman’s designs.
Color was the main focus at Clover Canyon (left), where makeup pro Sarah Lucero channeled a “sun-kissed siren.” The simple look included loose waves, clean skin, and nearly neon tangerine lips. To achieve the stained-but-slightly-glossy effect, Lucero used a blend of Stila Color Balm Lipsticks in Avery and Valentina, pressing them into models’ pouts for a softer look. Orange lips are an easy, fuss-free way to make a statement on the sand—or anywhere, really. Streamline your morning routine for the rest of the summer with a swipe of intense, melt-proof pigment.
Even if your summer plans don’t involve a trip to the Italian Riviera, you can at least channel la dolce vita with the classic beauty moves seen at Dolce & Gabbana’s extravagant Alta Moda show in Capri this past weekend. Models stepped out in the designer duo’s signature look: jet-black winged eyeliner and nude or striking scarlet lips. The warm-weather twist was a plethora of vibrantly colored silk scarves wrapped around select catwalkers’ heads and cinched near the nape of their necks, while others had a foulard neatly tied underneath their chins (inspired by fifties screen sirens like Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly, no doubt). It’s a retro concept that still works for keeping strands safe from color-fading rays, ocean breezes…or a brisk ride on the back of a moped.
“It’s Ophelia,” said makeup pro Pat McGrath of the “serenely beautiful, ethereal girls” at Valentino. The overall effect was centered on pale, highlighted skin and deft contouring. McGrath used light gray shades around the eyes and a white hue on the lids, sweeping brown mascara through lashes as a finishing touch. A tiny bit of concealer to perfect complexions, a dash of lip balm, and it was done. “It’s about sculpting with light and shade,” she noted.
To make hair appear wet, Guido Palau misted Redken Shine Flash all over before crafting waves with a series of clips—ultimately leaving strands down save for a small section twisted around the length like a loose ponytail holder. (We suggest you steal this move straight off the runway and whip it out next time you find yourself missing an elastic or simply want to pull back curls without creating a dent.) “The beauty of the Valentino woman is very well defined: She’s always very serene and feminine,” Palau explained of the finished package.
Backstage before Armani Privé, makeup artist Linda Cantello explained how she worked the show’s black and white theme into the maquillage. “We were really going for a modern-couture look, so a red lip didn’t really work and neither did classic eyeliner.” Instead, she paled models’ complexions by adding a few drops of Maestro Zero (on counters in November) to their normal foundation shade and accented lids and cheekbones with a highlighter from the Orient Excess collection (out for the holidays). Next, the pro reached for the house’s new star product, Eye & Brow Maestro in Jet, and smudged the pigment around the eyes and past the outer corners before straightening the brows with the same formula in a tone closer to each catwalker’s hair color. The final flourish was Black Ecstasy, a mascara with a wet finish that is set to launch this September. “She’s a woman of mystery, but couture makeup is becoming much more simple and accessible,” she explained. “It’s real, but it’s more.”
Working with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Hot Style Constructor, hair guru Peter Gray crafted an “almost DIY,” not-too-perfect twist high at the back of the head. The finished look was soft, with sweeping fringe and a hint of a bouffant as a nod to the sixties. “Whatever we were going to do, Mr. Armani wanted it to feel young and fresh,” he noted. “The actual style was a process of iteration, tweaking until we got it right—a bit like a tailor would fit a piece of clothing.”