The custom-blended neo-pastels seen on Prabal Gurung’s Spring 2014 runway are soon to be available in single tubes. According to WWD, the designer teamed up with MAC, his longtime backstage beauty partner, to create a 14-piece collection arriving on shelves November 26. In addition to the “dirty” lilac (Ultramarine Pink), beige (Light English Red), and crimson (Carmine Rouge) bullets, the range will include a bronzing powder, cream color base, buffer brush, eyeshadow, liner, Chromagraphic pencil, and lip gloss—all housed in weighty gold packaging inspired by his mother’s compacts. Gurung also name-checked Sylvie Fleury, Damien Hirst, and Nick Knight as muses for his first makeup collection. In addition, he revealed the envy he has for the “20 minutes to an hour” women spend in front of the mirror: “I always feel, whether it’s getting dressed or putting on makeup, it’s ritualistic, a very spiritual process that a woman has,” Gurung said. “We men don’t have the opportunity to do that. As time-consuming as it might be, it’s really a time for you and yourself, deciding how you want to feel, how you want to look.” Can Prabal get an amen?
Getting ink done has never been so quick, painless…and shiny. Whether you desire delicate midi rings, a wrist full of bracelets, or a chain-link choker, the temporary tattoos from Flash are on an entirely different level than the peel-and-stick versions of your youth. This fleeting body bijoux has become somewhat of a summer sensation—with everyone from industry insiders to Alessandra Ambrosio layering the foil-like transfers with stacks of fine jewelry. We even saw mirrored eyeliner adhered to catwalkers’ lids at Dior’s recent Couture show. Here, model Adesuwa Pariyapasat demonstrates how to make a serious statement (if only for Labor Day weekend) with these metallic tats.
Photographer: Ibra Ake
Stylist: Von Ford
Makeup Artist: Georgina Billington
Hairstylist: Nigella Miller
All diamond jewelry by Hirotaka. For similar styles, visit barneys.com.
Backstage at Gucci, you can always expect a look—the iconic brand isn’t one to embrace the bare-face beauty that often runs rampant through New York fashion week. Makeup maestro Pat McGrath made that notion clear during the Spring 2013 season, stating, “This is Milan. We’re not going to bore you with no makeup anymore.” And it’s true, editors and onlookers alike are never bored. For Fall 2014 there were spectacular rows of ’60s-inspired false lashes, and last Spring McGrath smudged copper around catwalkers’ eyes for a “sporty” effect (or at least Gucci’s glamorous iteration of sporty). And come October—just in time to refresh your makeup bag for the cooler weather and holiday merriment ahead—is a 200-piece cosmetic collection developed by McGrath and the woman currently at the helm of the iconic Italian powerhouse, Frida Giannini. Here, the creative director divulges all the deets on designing makeup, her beauty must-haves, and the reason she’ll never get Botox.
Let’s start from the beginning. At what age did you start wearing makeup?
I started when I was a teenager, so 14 or 15. It was in the ’80s, so I had this passion for music and all the stars in this moment. I would always try to replicate Boy George’s makeup or Madonna’s with a long wing. There were a lot of disasters, but I had a lot of fun…I remember I had a moment where everything was black: I had black hair and black lipstick. Nice? No!
What is your makeup routine like now?
It’s much easier than it was in the ’80s! I have a very simple routine. I put on some cream because I have very sensitive skin, so I need to pay a lot of attention to it. And then I put on a base, like a foundation, and just some mascara. And then concealer, of course, because it helps a lot—especially when you’re tired, it opens up your eyes a bit. So this is [key]. If I have a special event or a dinner or something, I put more on. And if I have something very special, like an event where I have to take a lot of pictures, I call a makeup artist. I can do black liner, mascara, and moisturizer, but I can’t do more than that because I end up doing weird things!
How does makeup complete the Gucci woman?
I’m so enthusiastic about this project because to me it was something that was really missing in the Gucci aesthetic and the Gucci collection. Makeup is something that defines the look of a woman and defines a look of a catwalk, so to me it was really important to add this piece. It’s very important for [Gucci's] history. And when we were talking about the focus of this project and the campaign, we started with the eyes. [The face of the range], Charlotte [Casiraghi], has beautiful eyes. To me, the eyes are always the most important because with your eyes you can really interact with people. They’re very magnetic, so that’s why I love the eyes maybe more than anything else.
And judging by what I’ve seen backstage at your shows, sexy eye makeup is usually on the agenda. Why is that typically your focal point as opposed to a strong lip?
I think that from your eyes you can really exude confidence and sensuality. You can be very provocative, you can be very feminine, you can be very sweet, you can be very tough—[attitude] is always [conveyed] with your eyes.
Are you yourself a fan of a strong eye?
Yes, especially because I don’t have big lips. Every time I try to put a lipstick on my mouth, I’m always like, “Oh, my God!” It runs all over my face. So I always prefer to focus on eyes.
Is there a particular product in the collection that you love?
Well, the mascara is great because we have a new brush. It’s something we just trademarked—it’s new technology, so I’m very proud of it. [The formula] really gives [lashes] volume and intensity. So I think that mascara is one of my favorite things.
What else do you always keep in your bag?
Well, the mascara for sure, and powder.
That’s one of my favorites in the collection, too. I love the texture.
Powder is another difficult thing because I never found a very good product [before we made our own]. Everything is so heavy and it covers too much, so my skin doesn’t breathe and feels irritated when I remove it. This one is really light, and that’s what I love about it.
Do you have any tips you’ve picked up backstage for applying your own makeup?
I’ve worked with Pat [McGrath] for many years, so I’ve stolen [a few tricks] from her! For example, she taught me not just to apply mascara [horizontally], but to also go one by one vertically. And I learned to apply foundation with my fingers, not with a brush. But of course it depends because I don’t have “Pat’s touch”—sometimes I feel like I’m doing dots all over my face, so I prefer to go with the brushes. Brushes were very important to me to develop for this collection. I’m obsessed with brushes, especially with the quality of the hair, so I pushed a lot to have the best natural hair so you can keep it clean, and for a pouch, because I never like to put a brush in my beauty bag without a beautiful pouch. I put a lot of my own needs and [the answers to my own] complaints into this collection.
Now that you’ve created the solutions to your beauty problems, do you think makeup is all a woman needs? What are your feelings on plastic surgery and Botox?
I’m never in the position of judging anyone, so I always say that if you do it in the right and proper way and you feel better, why not? I’m really open to this and would probably do it on myself. The problem is that I hate injections and I have very delicate skin, so if you touch me I have black dots for two weeks. I cannot do it because I’m always working and always meeting people, so it’s quite tough for me! But honestly, if there is a woman who doesn’t accept herself because of her age and wrinkles and she can do something to feel better, then maybe. The important thing is never to do too much. I’ve seen some monsters—both men and women.
Yes, I think we’ve all encountered a few plastic surgery monsters who made us think twice. Do you think you might go deeper into skincare after this?
I think so, yes.
What is your go-to face moisturizer at the moment?
I use creams that come from the dermatologist because I have a lot of allergies, so I need to be very careful…I suffer from dermatitis because of stress and sometimes because my skin is very sensitive. I inherited this from my mom, but fortunately my daughter seems to have stronger skin.
Speaking of that, how has your beauty routine changed since becoming a mother?
Honestly, it didn’t change a lot. Of course I have less time and I don’t want to spend an hour in the toilet doing my makeup because I prefer to play with [my daughter] before leaving for the office. Honestly, though, I wore the same makeup before [she was born]. She changed my life in other [ways], but not with makeup!
Have you discovered any baby products that you love using on yourself?
Yes. There is a body cream I use on her that has the smell of baby powder that I really love—it’s really hydrating. Sometimes I put it on myself as well. It’s a very niche, Italian brand: Fiocci di Riso …I think it’s from a small factory, and I’ve only found it one place in Rome. When I’m traveling, I try to keep it with me because [the scent] reminds me of [my daughter].
Fragrance is also an important part of the makeup collection, which is interesting. The lipsticks smell like “blue chocolate,” while the foundation is more floral, like a lily. Why did you decide on those scents in particular?
First of all, the deal I gave to the team—so to Pat [McGrath] and Procter & Gamble—was that I didn’t want the makeup to have a strong scent because it’s something I hate personally. So I really wanted something soft. But they explained to me that you can’t have something that smells like a pharmaceutical product, so we decided to have these little touches of flavors. We tried many different essences—it’s like when you do a fragrance. Of course, the idea of the chocolate I loved a lot, because if you can put something on your lips that reminds you of chocolate, it’s like a dream. Especially if you don’t eat chocolate!
And from what I understand, there was a lot of thought put into the colors in the collection—some were even pulled from the Gucci archives.
Yes, there were some colors that were coming from the Gucci archive or the colors from the collection, so we just needed to edit. In the beginning, I put together walls full of color palettes and things from the archive. The ottanio color was frequently done in the ’60s and ’70s—there were a lot of pieces in calf fur and leather. And then, of course, the bronze and the gold, which are colors that were used in the past, but again are very Gucci colors. I insisted on finding the right formula to have the shimmery gold that was very contemporary and very modern, so not the gold from the ’70s. Also, the rusty, brick colors. Those are very iconic [shades] that we brought back from the past but I still [use] very frequently in the collection. There are some colors—like the reds and blues—that are always going in every single collection.
Is there a color a woman should never wear past a certain age?
I don’t think so. For example, my mom has beautiful blue eyes, and when she puts blue on, her eyes [look like they did] in the ’70s. I think she’s still very beautiful. I would never wear the blue because every time I try it on myself, I say, “Oh, my God, I don’t recognize myself.”
Is there one makeup move that a Gucci woman would never make?
No, a Gucci woman always takes a risk.
Gucci Cosmetics are available in October at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Gucci Boutiques. Prices range from $29 to $79.
For those with unruly strands susceptible to heat and humidity, there are plenty of potentially hazardous answers to frizz, such as formaldehyde-based Brazilian blow-outs and chemical relaxers with sodium hydroxide (the same ingredient found in Drano). But if your goal is to gain manageability sans the gas mask at the salon, Cezanne Perfect Finish Keratin Smoothing Treatment might be your answer. This odorless, formaldehyde-free service combines keratin, seracin (a silk protein), and glycolic acid to condition and smooth the cuticles. The end result is straighter—but not flat and lifeless—hair.
The process itself is deceptively simple: After a standard wash and dry, a keratin complex is painted onto strands and left to sit for 30 minutes. Next, the treatment is rinsed out, hair is dried, and small sections are sealed with a flatiron. The best part? You don’t have to play the waiting game when it comes to washing at home. (Many treatments require a three-day, water-free grace period to fully penetrate.) The only stipulation is lathering up with sulfate-free formulas in the shower.
Effects last about four months (depending on hair type and maintenance) and are noticeable immediately—especially in the styling department. Blow-dry sessions are blissfully shorter, the results of air-drying are significantly improved, and even the tough-to-tame area near the nape of the neck is substantially less rebellious. As for the grow-out process, there isn’t any. Similar to semi- or demi-permanent hair color, Cezanne slowly disappears sans breakage. Master stylist Nicole Descoteaux of the Butterfly Studio in New York City suggests scheduling a treatment before a color appointment and leaving your hair in the capable hands of a professional. At the end of the day, she quips, “It’s all about the surgeon, not the surgery.”
When hair pro Michelle Snyder, formerly of Bumble and Bumble and Whittemore House, returned to her hometown of San Francisco a few years ago to open her very own salon, the New York clients who had come to rely on her signature cool-girl cuts with a retro spin were collectively dismayed. But NYC’s loss has been SF’s gain. At her Barrow Salon, Snyder is continuing to dole out ‘dos that have earned her a cultish following and celebrity fans like Zooey Deschanel, Karen Elson, and Amanda Peet, alongside a stellar team of creatives she handpicked, not to mention playing host to pop-up shops and regularly visiting talent. Anyone who has had the great fortune of being at the receiving end of Snyder’s shears knows that her personal style—vintage dresses and serious lipstick—is as worthy of accolades as her cuts. Here, the hair virtuoso shares some of her personal go-tos.
THE EYEBROW GURU: Amanda Toscano
“My favorite eyebrow specialist is by far Amanda at Habit. She has an amazing eye for what constitutes the perfect arch on everyone. The best I’ve ever found.”
THE KICK-ASS WORKOUT: El Niño
“I love El Niño MMA gym. I have been doing Thai boxing for six years, and this gym hands-down has the best workouts and the most eclectic group of people. It’s not for the weak…and that why I like it.”
THE SIGNATURE SCENT: Agent Provocateur
“Agent Provocateur. Always. I have been wearing this fragrance for about 10 years. It’s the perfect combination of rosy and sexy.”
THE RESIDENT OUTFITTERS
“My favorite stores to shop are Reliquary for their beautiful Victorian jewelry and Ver Unica for their 1930s dress collection. I also love the Alameda flea market for clothes and household goods.”
THE BRUNCH STOP
“The best place for a boozy brunch on a Sunday is Thee Parkside. The chilaquiles are delish!”
THE SKINCARE ADVISER: Anna Petras
“For all things complexion related—facials, Botox, laser, etc.—I go to Anna Petras, NP [aesthetic nurse practitioner] at Inner Image. She introduced me to SkinCeuticals Phyto +, which has really helped to improve my skin tone and texture.”
THE HAIR HELPERS: Eileen McCarthy at Barrow and Coby Alcántar at Little Axe Salon
“Eileen is my favorite. She is so good with all color, but her rich brunettes are perfection. And I see my friend Coby every time I’m back in New York. We have a thing where we always cut each other’s hair when we see each other.”
THE STRAND ESSENTIALS
“I am in love with R+Co Outer Space hairspray. It’s dry, so you can layer it, and it smells so delicious and earthy. Also, Oribe’s Gold Lust shampoo and conditioner is instant gratification in a bottle for beat-up hair.”
THE BEAUTY BASICS
“In Fiore has so many beautiful products, and they are local, which is great, but my favorites are their lip balm and eye balm. I love Kiehl’s vanilla and cedarwood body wash and Santa Maria Novella bath salts—I love all of their scents because they feel woodsy, hippie, and yummy. My all-time favorite red lipstick is Ruby Woo by MAC, but I’m also in love with Bésame lipstick! Their reds, which are inspired by styles from the 1920s to 1950s and which we sell at Barrow, are my favorite.”