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August 20 2014

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Shadow Boxing On The Fall Runways

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Eye shadow has never been one of our go-to beauty items. Sure, we keep a drawer full of shimmering aquas, bright oranges, and metallic silvers on hand, but that’s more of a testament to a tendency to hoard than an inclination to wear them. But lid-layering is emerging as one of Fall’s biggest trends, so we may be grateful to our coffers yet. In contrast to the many nude, no-makeup looks that have dominated presentations in New York and London, a few makeup artists this season are opting for drama, taking pigment all the way up to the brow and dragging it underneath the lower lid, often in lieu of any eyeliner and/or mascara at all. Charlotte Tilbury championed this cause backstage at both DKNY and Pringle of Scotland, where she chose dark beiges and taupes to evoke a feeling of sullen antiquity—a sentiment that Pat McGrath echoed at Kinder Aggugini, where she used a rounded, shimmery “greige” eye to re-create what she described as a “Napoleonic” woman. The same technique has had flashier seventies moments as well. At Diane von Furstenberg, James Kaliardos paid tribute to Studio 54 by blending blue and green iridescent pigments and MAC’s 3-D Glitter in Silver into a strong, glossy black eye, while Diane Kendal channeled Sarah Moon photos and vintage Cacharel backstage at Carolina Herrera, using four different purple eye shadows on top of MAC’s Lipliner in Night Moth, which she scrawled across models’ lids for hold. We’ll let you know if there are other noteworthy sightings in Milan and Paris, so we can all get a head start on some necessary at-home trial and error before next season rolls around.

Clockwise from top left, Bebeto Matthews / AP Photo at DKNY; Ian Gavan / Getty Images at Pringle of Scotland; Greg Kessler / FirstView.com at DVF and Carolina Herrera; Chiaki Nozu / WireImage / Getty Images at Kinder Aggugini.

Backstage Beauty: It’s In The Bag

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After years of hearing that makeup artists and hairstylists rely on its traditional black travel cases to transport products and tools between New York, London, Milan, and Paris, Tumi is capitalizing on an amazing marketing opportunity: Starting this past weekend, the brand has partnered with MAC Cosmetics’ vice president of makeup artistry, Gordon Espinet, and will follow him (and his trusty luggage) as he makes the seasonal backstage rounds. Wherever Gordon and his Tumi bags go, fans of the brand—and fashion in general—will have a chance to follow via Facebook and Twitter, learning about Fall beauty trends and after-party antics along the way. Right here, for example, Espinet’s Alpha duffels are en route from Heathrow to Milan, where the fashion tribe is currently relocating. Can’t you just see the anticipation, exhaustion, and excitement on their ultra-tough, FXT ballistic nylon faces?

At Burberry Prorsum, The Lob Gets Longer

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As loyal readers of this blog may remember, I cut off all of my hair last season—right before the Spring shows, in fact. After ten-plus years of long locks that dangled well past my shoulders, I went with an asymmetrical bob that was cropped in the back and hung slightly longer in the front, with face-framing layers to boot. It was a welcome change, and I kept it up for about three months before getting lazy and failing to schedule regular trims. I’m finding myself at a crossroads these days, sporting a messy “lob” that’s still asymmetrical with a few added inches to weigh it down. But apparently, I can stop worrying over what to do—I’m right on trend for Fall. At Burberry Prorsum, Neil Moodie styled models with a variant of the long lob.”I was inspired by the A-line bob, where the front of the hair is cut on an angle so it is longer at the front than the back, creating a heavy feeling,” Moodie said between spritzes of Bumble and Bumble Thickening Hairspray backstage yesterday. “I am taking this idea and applying it to longer hair lengths here, though, so if any model has longer layered hair I am disguising the layers with hair extensions to create that weighty feel in the front, and keeping it shorter in the back.” He described the style as “natural, effortless chic,” perfect for the urban Burberry girl—and urban Brooklyn girls, it turns out, who just may need to own that gigantic-collared military parka from look 10 come September.

Photo: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse / FirstView.com; Ian Gavan / Getty Images

At Marios Schwab, Daring To Go Bare

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Despite the season, not a pair of tights could be spotted on Marios Schwab’s runway yesterday. But we didn’t see the typical high-shine gams in their place. According to St. Tropez’s Nichola Joss, next fall is all about a matte finish. “I’m not suggesting flat, mannequin skin that foundation can sometimes give you,” Joss said backstage. Instead, she recommends mixing your moisturizer with a little bit of pigment to mask the blotchy paleness that plagues most of us during the seasonal transition. Her advice: Use the cosmetic part of St. Tropez’s Everyday Perfect Legs, which comes equipped with two pumps (one with a bronzer, the other with a gradual self-tanner), and mix it with your go-to lotion or body cream. Just how far into next winter you’re willing to insist that you’re “not cold”? That’s entirely up to you.

Photo: Courtesy of St. Tropez; Marcio Madeira / FirstView.com

Disco For A New Generation At Roksanda Ilincic

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Roksanda Ilincic had a touch of disco fever at her show in London yesterday, and backstage you could feel the boogie-oogie-oogie vibe, too, albeit in a post-aughts adaptation. Focused on creating something chic and modern, yet equally glam, makeup artist Lucia Pica used MAC Glitter in Reflects Gold and Beige on the inner corner of models’ eyes, extending the shimmery mix across the eyelids and onto the temples before spinning a fresh, wet look by smudging Vaseline along the bottom lash line. On the lips, she layered MAC’s Russian Red, Spice It Up!, and Cocochina—that perfect shade of chocolate berry that Charlotte Tilbury debuted at DKNY—for a dark, lacquered killer pout. The look truly came to life with hairstylist James Pecis’ ingeniously constructed fluffy, frizzy, flyaways—think Grace Coddington meets the towering Afros at Louis Vuitton’s Spring show. Wrapping sections of hair around pieces of wire in a figure eight shape, Pecis clamped them with hot irons then brushed each segment out, revealing soft, weightless, fuzzy manes that were meant to “move for the upbeat catwalk music.” And shake their groove things they did.