Though makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin passed away nearly twelve years ago, his lasting legacy in the beauty industry—not least of which includes his namesake cosmetics brand—remains untouched. To celebrate Aucoin’s enduring influence, Makeup Show (now in its sixth year in Los Angeles) is debuting the first ever Makeup Show Icon Gallery, providing a rare glimpse into the mind and makeup of Aucoin. The face painter’s professional hallmarks are vast (his ability to craft a flawless canvas and define his subject’s features is still marveled at today), but his body of work was far more robust than many ever imagined. “We try to find artists from different industries that [impact] the makeup industry, those who are known even outside the beauty [world],” show owner Shelly Taggar explained. “He was a person that was not only that talented in makeup, but he was a photographer, a poet, a painter.”
From handwritten notes to personal Polaroids to original color swatches for his line, the curated collection of nearly 65 pieces reveals never-before-seen glimpses into Aucoin’s personal and professional life. It also documents his work with famous faces including Janet Jackson, Cindy Crawford, Cher, and Gwyneth Paltrow.
The Makeup Show, March 1-2, California Market Center, 110 East Ninth Street, Los Angeles, CA; themakeupshow.com
Hair was piling up on the floor backstage at Anthony Vaccarello when I came upon mane master Anthony Turner’s station. He was carving his way around the head of Brit beauty Sam Rollinson. “He said, ‘Listen, I really, really, really need Sam in the show, but I prefer her hair how it was,’” Turner said of his conversation with the designer. “The only way to get around that was a wig.” Over her twenties bob sat an updated version of her previous “hard-lined, seventies bowl,” but this time it was more “aggressive” and “rock ‘n’ roll.” Choppy, “chewed-up” layers were snipped in the same vein as short-haired catwalkers like Edie Campbell (who inspired the Joan Jett-esque shags at Marc Jacobs a few seasons ago). “I was thinking if I had got the chance to cut Sam’s hair for real, how would I do it. Now I have the chance to do just that,” explained Turner. “It’s very deconstructed, a bit all over the place—almost as if she’s done it herself,” he said of the final result. As for Rollinson, she’s ready to sport this style for longer than ten minutes (the approximate length of a runway show). “I really like it, it’s really cool,” she said of her new crop. Turner’s last piece of advice to the model who is planning to grow her hair out: “Let me cut it for you next time.”
It’s a trick of only the cleverest designers: Take an item once deemed hopelessly uncool and, with a bit of style wizardry, succeed in giving it an entirely new spin. That is precisely what sprightly New York designer Rachel Antonoff did for the humble penny loafer via her collaboration with G.H. Bass & Co., transforming a tired preppy stalwart into the uniform for an entirely different set. Antonoff, who started her fashion career as a writer before cofounding the much-loved label Mooka Kinney and eventually launching her eponymous label in 2009, has, as far as style sensibility goes, the corner on quirk. Offbeat prints, rompers, tented baby dolls, prim collars, and sharply tailored high-waisted shorts and pants are all Antonoff hallmarks—so too are the perfectly idiosyncratic women (Aubrey Plaza, Alia Shawkat, et al.) who serve as models in her biannual lookbook. This spring marks the release of her second short film and another soon-to-be-announced collaboration. Here, Antonoff shares some of her bicoastal beauty favorites.
THE RELAXATION PIT STOP: Olympic Spa
“This place is the best. You go and sit in a hot tub with a whole bunch of naked ladies, which is an interesting experience unto itself, and then you get an incredibly thorough body scrub that leaves you feeling like a new person. They also do great manicures and massage.”
3915 W. Olympic Blvd., L.A.; olympicspala.com.
THE PETITE RETREAT: Angel Feet
“One of my favorite places ever. It’s tiny, they can only take two people at a time, and it’s just fantastic foot reflexology. So basically you get an amazing foot massage and then they tell you cool things about your body that they learned from your feet.”
77 Perry St,, #2, NYC; angelfeet.com.
THE ONE-AND-ONLY WORKOUT: Ballet Beautiful
“I really can’t say enough good things about Mary Helen Bowers and Ballet Beautiful. I started with her when it was five of us in an apartment, and it’s been thrilling to see her take off. It is genuinely the only workout I’ve ever done that actually changed my body.”
THE SIGNATURE FRAGRANCE: Comme des Garçons Wonderwood
“I’m not a big fragrance person, but I adore this cologne. It’s really clean and distinct.”
THE HOTEL PAR EXCELLENCE: Sunset Tower
“This place is so cozy and special, and they have a way of making you feel like Eloise even if you’re there just a few nights.”
8358 Sunset Blvd., L.A.; sunsettowerhotel.com.
THE HAIR HONCHOS: Tabitha Baker and Rheanne White
“There are two people without whom I would perpetually be in a hat. Tabitha Baker at Arrojo is a sensational colorist. She brought me from dark brown to platinum blond, and she is the only colorist I want to see for the rest of time. Rheanne White cuts my hair and is a real dream. She just opened up her own salon in Tribeca and it’s heaven. Bonus perk: She has the most adorable daughter who sings like Aretha Franklin-meets-Barbra Streisand and will serenade you if you ask.”
THE FOREVER FAVORITE: Jason Lavender Body Wash
“Simply put, it’s what I imagine parts of heaven smell like.”
Available at drugstore.com
For those of us whose fashion sensibilities tend toward the bohemian, Marni is the ultimate style pipe dream—the art-teacher-with-a-trust-fund wardrobe we’ve always fantasized about. Birthed in 1994 by the impossibly chic Consuelo Castiglioni as a new branch of the family’s iconic fur company, it has since then built a distinct identity for itself—playful patterns, quirky silhouettes, clever use of fur, futuristic fabrics and textures, bold colors in unexpected combinations—and in turn garnered a rabid following among those women for whom dressing is a both artful and distinctly personal affair. The epitome of that woman is Carolina Castiglioni, Consuelo’s daughter and the brand’s director of special projects. Here, in honor of the house’s Fall 2014 collection, Carolina shares her top beauty (and more) essentials.
THE FAVORITE FRAGRANCE: Marni Il Profumo
“I love the perfume because it isn’t too sweet, but wonderfully spicy and different from any other scent.”
THE AU NATUREL MUSTS
“My favorite moisturizer is Weleda Calendula Cream, and for a body treatment I like to make my own. I create a customized mixture of oils from three parts almond oil, two parts wheat germ oil, and one part jojoba oil. On my nails—which I always just polish with a transparent lacquer—I use Dr. Hauschka Neem Nail Oil Pen; it’s made for both the nails and nail beds.”
THE HAIR HELPERS
“For cuts I go see Enzo at Di Luca; he is very precise and I appreciate that. And my hair care products come from Di Luca as well. I especially love their coconut shampoo, pH emollient conditioner, and vitamin oil for the scalp.”
Di Luca, Piazza Cinque Giornate 3, Milano; dilucamilano.it
THE EXERCISE ROUTINE
“My whole family exercises with a personal trainer named Armandino. We all meet during the company lunch break and do aerobic exercises together.”
THE ESSENTIAL MEAL
“My favorite restaurant in Milano is Trattoria Arlati and, of course, I love to order risotto alla Milanese.”
Trattoria Artlati, via Alberto Nota, 47, Milano, 20126, +39 02 643 3327; trattoriaarlati.it
The sixties are alive and well this season and everyone, from New York to London to Milan, is getting in the spirit. Eugene Souleiman channeled Françoise Hardy at Peter Som; Pat McGrath was inspired by Britt Ekland at Gucci; Mia Farrow was the icon on Paul Hanlon’s mind at Moschino; and today at Versace, Guido Palau crafted a slight bump in the hair—a surefire marker of the very groovy decade. When it comes to appliances, however, we don’t usually expect a throwback. White Sands, a haircare company, developed an attachment for your blow-dryer that acts like the “salon hoods or bonnets” of yesteryear, setting curls or locking in moisture from treatments, hands-free. Model Doutzen Kroes even appeared to be wearing a similar contraption on set this week. Will the concept take off like Mary Quant’s miniskirt or the bikini post-Beach Party? If the runways are any indication, going back in time just may be the wave of the future.