It’s a trick of only the cleverest designers: Take an item once deemed hopelessly uncool and, with a bit of style wizardry, succeed in giving it an entirely new spin. That is precisely what sprightly New York designer Rachel Antonoff did for the humble penny loafer via her collaboration with G.H. Bass & Co., transforming a tired preppy stalwart into the uniform for an entirely different set. Antonoff, who started her fashion career as a writer before cofounding the much-loved label Mooka Kinney and eventually launching her eponymous label in 2009, has, as far as style sensibility goes, the corner on quirk. Offbeat prints, rompers, tented baby dolls, prim collars, and sharply tailored high-waisted shorts and pants are all Antonoff hallmarks—so too are the perfectly idiosyncratic women (Aubrey Plaza, Alia Shawkat, et al.) who serve as models in her biannual lookbook. This spring marks the release of her second short film and another soon-to-be-announced collaboration. Here, Antonoff shares some of her bicoastal beauty favorites.
THE RELAXATION PIT STOP: Olympic Spa
“This place is the best. You go and sit in a hot tub with a whole bunch of naked ladies, which is an interesting experience unto itself, and then you get an incredibly thorough body scrub that leaves you feeling like a new person. They also do great manicures and massage.”
3915 W. Olympic Blvd., L.A.; olympicspala.com.
THE PETITE RETREAT: Angel Feet
“One of my favorite places ever. It’s tiny, they can only take two people at a time, and it’s just fantastic foot reflexology. So basically you get an amazing foot massage and then they tell you cool things about your body that they learned from your feet.”
77 Perry St,, #2, NYC; angelfeet.com.
THE ONE-AND-ONLY WORKOUT: Ballet Beautiful
“I really can’t say enough good things about Mary Helen Bowers and Ballet Beautiful. I started with her when it was five of us in an apartment, and it’s been thrilling to see her take off. It is genuinely the only workout I’ve ever done that actually changed my body.”
THE SIGNATURE FRAGRANCE: Comme des Garçons Wonderwood
“I’m not a big fragrance person, but I adore this cologne. It’s really clean and distinct.”
THE HOTEL PAR EXCELLENCE: Sunset Tower
“This place is so cozy and special, and they have a way of making you feel like Eloise even if you’re there just a few nights.”
8358 Sunset Blvd., L.A.; sunsettowerhotel.com.
THE HAIR HONCHOS: Tabitha Baker and Rheanne White
“There are two people without whom I would perpetually be in a hat. Tabitha Baker at Arrojo is a sensational colorist. She brought me from dark brown to platinum blond, and she is the only colorist I want to see for the rest of time. Rheanne White cuts my hair and is a real dream. She just opened up her own salon in Tribeca and it’s heaven. Bonus perk: She has the most adorable daughter who sings like Aretha Franklin-meets-Barbra Streisand and will serenade you if you ask.”
THE FOREVER FAVORITE: Jason Lavender Body Wash
“Simply put, it’s what I imagine parts of heaven smell like.”
Available at drugstore.com
For those of us whose fashion sensibilities tend toward the bohemian, Marni is the ultimate style pipe dream—the art-teacher-with-a-trust-fund wardrobe we’ve always fantasized about. Birthed in 1994 by the impossibly chic Consuelo Castiglioni as a new branch of the family’s iconic fur company, it has since then built a distinct identity for itself—playful patterns, quirky silhouettes, clever use of fur, futuristic fabrics and textures, bold colors in unexpected combinations—and in turn garnered a rabid following among those women for whom dressing is a both artful and distinctly personal affair. The epitome of that woman is Carolina Castiglioni, Consuelo’s daughter and the brand’s director of special projects. Here, in honor of the house’s Fall 2014 collection, Carolina shares her top beauty (and more) essentials.
THE FAVORITE FRAGRANCE: Marni Il Profumo
“I love the perfume because it isn’t too sweet, but wonderfully spicy and different from any other scent.”
THE AU NATUREL MUSTS
“My favorite moisturizer is Weleda Calendula Cream, and for a body treatment I like to make my own. I create a customized mixture of oils from three parts almond oil, two parts wheat germ oil, and one part jojoba oil. On my nails—which I always just polish with a transparent lacquer—I use Dr. Hauschka Neem Nail Oil Pen; it’s made for both the nails and nail beds.”
THE HAIR HELPERS
“For cuts I go see Enzo at Di Luca; he is very precise and I appreciate that. And my hair care products come from Di Luca as well. I especially love their coconut shampoo, pH emollient conditioner, and vitamin oil for the scalp.”
Di Luca, Piazza Cinque Giornate 3, Milano; dilucamilano.it
THE EXERCISE ROUTINE
“My whole family exercises with a personal trainer named Armandino. We all meet during the company lunch break and do aerobic exercises together.”
THE ESSENTIAL MEAL
“My favorite restaurant in Milano is Trattoria Arlati and, of course, I love to order risotto alla Milanese.”
Trattoria Artlati, via Alberto Nota, 47, Milano, 20126, +39 02 643 3327; trattoriaarlati.it
The sixties are alive and well this season and everyone, from New York to London to Milan, is getting in the spirit. Eugene Souleiman channeled Françoise Hardy at Peter Som; Pat McGrath was inspired by Britt Ekland at Gucci; Mia Farrow was the icon on Paul Hanlon’s mind at Moschino; and today at Versace, Guido Palau crafted a slight bump in the hair—a surefire marker of the very groovy decade. When it comes to appliances, however, we don’t usually expect a throwback. White Sands, a haircare company, developed an attachment for your blow-dryer that acts like the “salon hoods or bonnets” of yesteryear, setting curls or locking in moisture from treatments, hands-free. Model Doutzen Kroes even appeared to be wearing a similar contraption on set this week. Will the concept take off like Mary Quant’s miniskirt or the bikini post-Beach Party? If the runways are any indication, going back in time just may be the wave of the future.
Tom Pecheux, backstage fixture and creative makeup director for Estée Lauder, could hardly contain his excitement last season at Anthony Vaccarello when he described the packaging that was in the works for a mysterious new line of lipsticks. He discreetly referred to the more architectural look and magnetic closures, but considering these types of secrets are strictly confidential in the corporate beauty world, that’s all he could share…until now. The cosmetics giant is launching twenty shades of Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick, a formula that boasts time-released hyaluronic acid and multifaceted pigments (available February 24 at esteelauder.com). In this exclusive, the pro reveals all—including the shades he hand-selected to suit the many model faces of the brand.
How would you describe the new Pure Color Envy collection?
When I look at the collection, the first thing I think is the packaging is absolutely divine. Richard Ferretti did an amazing job with the case. For me, twenty colors is the perfect amount. The range captures every woman’s desire. The shades and formula are [traditional] in that they have the high coverage you expect from a lipstick and include a pure red and a perfect nude, but the new technology gives the line a modern twist. It’s like a classic wool dress that is made in cashmere. The new texture and formula make Envy extremely luxurious.
What are your favorite shades in the collection?
As a makeup artist, I cannot limit myself to one favorite shade. It will be the one that fits the person that I am working with on that day.
What do you think a lipstick says about a woman?
Lipstick tells us so many things about a woman. It tells us about her personality. For example, a woman wearing a strong lipstick—bright red—suggests she wants to express a certain power.
What is the best way to apply lip color? Fingertips, brush, or straight from the bullet?
There is no recipe. It depends on the result you want to create. A bullet is the best application because it’s fast, precise, and gives nice coverage. Fingertips create a transparent finish with no precision—more like a stain. A brush is for when you want perfection and a high-quality finish, particularly when you apply a red lipstick.
What are your tricks for making lips appear fuller? Does lip liner help?
Lip liner can help, but for me, a liner only works if it’s a nude or a color that matches the color of the lip. To make them fuller, you can go slightly outside the lip line.
If you have small lips, avoid a dark shade. The darker the shade, the more intense your lips look, but on smaller lips it can give you a mean, severe look. Also avoid very pale lipsticks if you want a fuller-looking mouth.
What is your favorite lip look?
It depends on the woman. But I am totally in love with red as much as I am with nude. I love women who play with makeup to emphasize a quality of their personality or character. That’s why in terms of lipstick, I love colors that have something to say—so either a pale nude, a true red, a dark plum, or a bright color. When it comes to a gentle pink, I understand why women want to wear it, but as a makeup artist, it doesn’t reflect a personality so well.
Which shade in the collection would you choose for each of these Estée Lauder spokesmodels?
Carolyn Murphy: Envious. She loves a red lipstick.
Constance Jablonski: I love it when she focuses on her eyes, so a nude color like Insatiable Ivory works on her lips.
Joan Smalls: I love her in a dark burgundy like Insolent Plum.
Liu Wen: I would go more pink, [one that's] powerful and dynamic. A shade like Dominant would suit.
Arizona Muse: I love her in a red as well, so Vengeful Red.
What do you think makes a woman enviable?
I think Carolyn Murphy pretty much embodies that—gotta love a bad bitch on a bike who knows how to make a serious statement by slicking on some lipstick and revving up her engine.
Grace Mahary recently shared her backstage obsession with Style.com: MomentCam, an app that transforms photos into black-and-white caricatures. She may have to play the waiting game in hair and makeup, but you can’t pin down this model’s artistic imagination. Here, she shares her top five portraits from New York fashion week. We look forward to seeing the sketched scenarios Mahary (and her catwalker cohorts) wind up in come Milan and Paris.
“Pilot Katlin Aas smells a gas leak at a fitting.”
“Ashleigh Good playing captain just before Tommy [Hilfiger].”
“Arlenis Sosa cruising away from Hervé Léger with her pirate’s booty.”
“Backstage photographer Greg [Kessler] lighting up everything behind the scenes.”
“Chiharu [Okunugi] taking a casual fifteen-minute break from backstage at Helmut [Lang] to play polo.”