“I love being a part of fashion week. I live off the adrenaline of shows. I wasn’t planning on walking so many shows, but it’s a pretty special year: Donna is celebrating her thirtieth, Diane von Furstenberg just celebrated her fortieth. It’s a season that’s not to be missed, so I couldn’t sit this one out.”
We heard rumblings that Kloss was “too famous” to walk the New York shows. Judging by the ten runways she strutted down for Fall 2014, that rumor was totally bogus (which the model clarified above). I asked Tracy Kloss (her mother) backstage if the super ever gets tired, and she stated quite simply: “No, she’s always had high metabolism and high energy.” And perhaps she has a bit of FOMO—as she doesn’t seem to be slowing down during fashion month anytime soon.
At this point, nail art seems a bit passé. However, when you can perfectly execute the embellishments from Stella McCartney’s Resort collection on fingertips, we have to applaud. And apparently, so does McCartney, as she re-posted this photo from a rather dexterous fan to her Instagram account. Another gem the designer shared via social media just hours ago: this kiss from Cara Delevingne—arriving just in time for Valentine’s Day.
It was Michael Kors’ show in 1991 that prompted the pitching of the tents in Bryant Park: The ceiling caved in, causing Naomi Campbell to flee the runway, and leaving Anna Wintour to pick plaster out of Suzy Menkes’ hair. He’s come a long way since then, recently joining the billionaire boys’ club. And Kors, like many other designers this season, has hightailed it out of Lincoln Center. (What can we say—billionaires and port-a-potties just don’t go hand in hand.) In lieu of a temporary black box, he has triumphantly returned to an airy, loftlike space, showing at Spring Studios downtown (along with the likes of Diane von Furstenberg). Here, he chats with us about everything from beauty to his Bar Mitzvah.
You’re showing outside of the tents for the first time in a long time. How does it feel?
Wonderful. Different clothes work in different settings. My clothes [have] discretion to them, and it’s about the quality. This particular collection is full of a lot of texture, so if you can be in a more intimate space, you actually can sense the texture—you’re up close. Daylight, in particular for this collection, was paramount to me. I used to have shows where we’d have 75 people in my showroom, so by the time we got to twelve hundred in the tent, intimacy was definitely gone. We really want the focus to be on the clothes.
I’ve heard that there were once editors seated in the bathroom when you presented a collection in your showroom. I assume nobody has been assigned that particular spot this season?
No editors in the bathroom. I remember a show where Helena Christensen said to me, “There are editors in the bathroom and the kitchen.” I think we seated it by nationality in different rooms. It was too intimate. Fashion is always about finding the right balance.
You’ve recently joined the billionaire boys’ club. How does it feel?
You know what? I focus on what I do every day. I love what I do. I always tell everyone, “Nothing could be a greater gift than to know when you’re young what you love…” And then to do it for over thirty years and still be curious and still love doing it? So my focus is always on the work. My greatest pleasure, quite frankly, is seeing people on the street wearing Michael Kors. That’s what rocks my world. I love the show, I’m very happy that I’ve been successful doing what I love, but the greatest thing is when I see people living in and wearing what I designed.
What do you think makes your clothes and accessories so coveted?
I live in the world, not my world. I think some designers have a tendency to live in a tower and they forget what real life is like. Yes, I actually go food shopping. Yes, I actually walk on the street. Yes, I know what it’s like to live a very busy life. I think I design in a way that there’s function, but there’s also fantasy. I always try to balance the two, and I think people appreciate that.
The beauty look is fresh and glow-y, per usual. What direction did you give Orlando Pita and Dick Page?
What’s interesting is that when you’re out in Big Sur it’s always crisp out, but I always end up driving around in a convertible—even if it’s cold—because the scenery is just so beautiful. And every time I’m out there, everyone has this flush to them, and if you have long hair you would definitely pull it into a braid and knot it up. This was [meant to look] like she was taking a drive and the flyaways are from being in her convertible. When the models come in on their fittings I love how they look just as themselves; I never want to mask a person’s individuality or beauty. I have the same attitude about makeup and hair as I do about fashion: It’s all about bringing out the best in the person, not turning them into someone else.
You don’t believe in the Cinderella treatment?
I hate it. I think it’s the worst thing a woman can do. Embrace who you are; that’s what really works. We really wanted the beauty to put the focus on [the girls].
What are you focused on for Fall 2014?
Definitely a word I don’t use a lot, for me, is “blouse.” There are a lot of beautiful, softer romantic blouses in the collection. Longer skirts and dresses, and even the shorter dresses, all catch the breeze—things that move. So definitely things that are soft and romantic. It’s also an amazing season for great knitwear; [there are] a lot of hand-knit alpacas and mohairs. Again, [it's about] texture—things that are tactile, things you want to touch.
In your opinion, who is the fashion world’s Jewish mother?
For me, I’ve got a few. I guess Suzy [Menkes] to a certain degree. Ellin Saltzman has been a fashion Jewish mom to me for a long time; I’ve known her my whole life. I guess one is my British fashion mother, one is my New York mother, and of course, I have my own Jewish fashion mother. I have the trifecta. I’ve known Ellin since I started, so she really got to watch me grow up. Fashion is a family.
And I take it the show is like your bar mitzvah?
The show is definitely my bar mitzvah. I throw two bar mitzvahs a year—I always say that! Except my bar mitzvah was in the seventies and it was full of really ugly colors.
To get the Big Sur beauty look from the show, try Michael Kors Lip Lacquer in Dame and Bronze Powder in Glow.
At this point, the maquillage at Jason Wu’s show has practically become the apogee of beauty at NFYW. From last season’s gilded gaze to Fall 2013’s indigo eyes, Wu’s faces, courtesy of Lancôme these past few seasons, have consistently been ones to not only collectively admire, but to also aspire to. Now the beauty brand is making those aspirations obtainable via a new interactive digital beauty program that allows you to virtually try on Wu’s runway-worthy looks for size in real time.
The French beauty behemoth has aligned with FaceCake to introduce Swivel Close-Up, a cosmetics try-on technology that allows the public to experiment with both the beautiful androgynous look from Friday’s show, along with classic products from the brand. The hi-tech contraption is being unveiled exclusively at DreamDry’s flagship in Flatiron to celebrate the one-year anniversary of the popular blow-out salon.
Users are able to test out everything from eyeshadows to blushes to lipsticks and glosses using a touch screen, shop the products selected, and share their virtual makeover pictures on social media. Pro tip: It’s best to try out the system while wearing a natural face of makeup, otherwise it’s hard for selected shades to digitally appear over your fire-engine-red lip or of-the-moment green shadow.
Swivel Close-Up is currently slated to remain at DreamDry (35 West 21st Street, New York City) through the end of the month and is open to the pubic.