July 24 2014

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90210, Bottled


When we last checked in with D.S. & Durga, a musician and architect who met in New York, fell in love, and started a perfume company, their fragrance adventures had only just begun. But the duo has just inked a deal with Anthropologie for four exclusive scents due out at the end of the summer, and a new chapter in their story is in the works. Their first effort for the Philadelphia-based retailer is called Beverly Hills 1985 and debuted this month. It’s meant to evoke “leopard-print shirts, cigarettes, and the smell of the opulent white flower perfumes of the era of excess,” according to D.S. Born and raised on the East Coast, he envisioned the spicy, musky scent—with notes of jasmine, peach, clove leaf, and amber—as a realization of a fantasy that belonged to his mother and her friends when he was growing up. To them, the legendary 90210 zip code was some kind of mythical place, “a dream paradise for rich people,” he recalls. Now, the town that still holds the same allure for aspirational types the world over is also the only place you can buy his olfactory homage. For more information, call Anthropologie on N. Beverly Drive, (310) 385-7390.

Jasmine White Moss, A Lauder Legend In The Making


While our aversion to all things jasmine might normally have kept us away from Estée Lauder’s new fragrance that stars the pungent floral note, an indelible attraction to perfume solids encased by kitschy trinkets managed to lure us in. The latest addition to the brand’s Private Collection of scents, Jasmine White Moss represents the convergence of two generations of Lauders: Called formula #546AQ when it was conceived by Estée herself, it was left unfinished, forgotten in the International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) vault, until her granddaughter Aerin unearthed it a year and a half ago. Using advanced distillation technologies, the latter Lauder incorporated the original essences with an exclusive white moss accord as well as 15 different natural fragrance absolutes, combining crisp black-currant bud (a quality captured for the first time with a new extraction technique) with Jasmine Sambac absolute, ylang-ylang absolute, and Jasmin India absolute, three ingredients her grandmother had chosen a generation ago. Violet, orange flower absolute, and absolute of patchouli heart round out the perfume’s rich, white bouquet, which comes in bottle and accessory form, making it a dream come true for jasmine fans—and those of us who just like a shiny compact. To each her own.

Photo: Courtesy of Estée Lauder/div>

Bond No. 9 Is London-Bound


Bond No. 9 has made a name for itself as the downtown perfume purveyor with a knack for bottling the essence of New York. But recently, the niche company seems to be growing tired of the isle of Manhattan. It crossed the East River this past spring, when Brooklyn served as olfactory muse, and this week it’s gearing up for a much longer swim when the new scents Harrods for Her and for Him will debut at the legendary London retailer. The joint venture marks the first intercontinental fragrance effort for both brands, a collaboration that was intended to produce a smell that evoked Bond No. 9′s eclectic, downtown vibe mixed with Harrod’s classic history—an ode to its esteemed past and its bright future. To properly execute this abstract concept, the women’s parfum starts with a single floral note, tuberose (apparently coveted by both British and American noses), and intermingles with leather, yielding a unique aroma that is both spicy and sweet. The juice is then fleshed out with earthy-citrus accoutrements like neroli, sage, nutmeg, and amber. The star-shaped flacon is, of course, all Bond No. 9, but the interlocking-H pattern on the bottle brings it right back to Harrods. Miller Harris, Neiman’s—your move.

Photo: Courtesy of Bond No. 9

Justin Makes His Givenchy Debut, Talks Celebrity Fragrance


You’ve likely heard the hype surrounding Justin Timberlake’s lucrative contract with Parfums Givenchy, which surfaced last year when his ad campaign for its new scent, Play, debuted in Europe. But if you aren’t a frequent consumer of foreign glossies, it’s unlikely you’ve seen just how much sexy Timberlake is bringing back for the French company (see image above). The stateside launch of the fragrance, which is centered around Caribbean amyris wood, a soft woody note similar to sandalwood and cedar, was apparently held for a year so any “kinks” could be worked out before it debuted in the U.S. But with those imperfections presumably ironed out, its release is now slated for September. As for future contributions to the beauty industry, the pop star-cum-fashion designer-cum-actor and music producer told WWD that while he could see possibly doing a signature scent for his William Rast line, there will likely not be a “Justin” fragrance anytime soon. “There’s some level of narcissism you have to put in check,” he mentioned, referencing celebrity olfactory collaborations. “It feels like cheating, almost. It doesn’t seem like you’re creating anything.” (He said it, not us.)

Photo: Courtesy of Parfums Givenchy

Guerlain Debuts The Work Of Idylle Hands


After hosting a few private dinners through the month of June in honor of its new fall scent Idylle, the House of Guerlain used the backdrop of couture week to invite selected members of the press to behold the fruits of its labor at its Champs-Élysées boutique last night—lest Armani’s grand-scale publicity efforts for its new Idole get all the glory. The rose-centric fragrance marks the first women’s offering from newly anointed nose Thierry Wasser, who is also the first house perfumer in the company’s illustrious history who does not bear its eponymous last name. “One of Guerlain’s signatures is to respect what is the most simple,” explains Wasser, who came on board last year when Jean-Paul Guerlain essentially adopted him after his own son chose law over beauty. “So I created an impressionistic expression,” Wasser continues, “a bouquet made of joy, love, and happiness.” Starting with a rose plucked from the private garden of Jean-Paul Guerlain himself, Wasser added seasonal flowers as he went along—peonies, lilac, freesia, jasmine, and lily of the valley—which he shaded with chypre, a nod to Mitsouko and Nahéma, his two favorite Guerlain creations. The result is a sensual yet light fragrance that is being marketed as “an ode to a moment in time, whether past, present, or future.” Rising French actress and singer Nora Arnezeder is the face of the ad campaign while bottle designer Ora-Ito marks a new chapter in the brand’s history with what he calls “simplexity”: a shape that is both simple and complex, recalling a golden droplet inspired by the myth of Zeus and Danae. The fragrance will be launched exclusively at Saks on September 21.