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subscribe to beauty counter blog via RSSPoint, Shoot, Combat Acne
October 23, 2009 10:56 am
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
I’ve never had particularly reactive skin but have been experiencing both face and body breakouts as of late. I’ve also recently started developing my own film and am wondering if those chemicals could be attributing to the breakouts. Please advise.
Stealth exposure to chemicals is a common cause of new breakouts. Chromates from developing photographic film are a classic culprit. It’s called aerosolized allergic contact dermatitis. The chemical is in the air and when it hits your skin, it sets up an immune reaction in your skin. It often takes multiple exposures over weeks to develop the rash. Contact dermatitis can be red, bumpy, itchy, dry, and scaly. It can become super-infected with bacteria and other infectious elements. Sometimes it isn’t as obvious as it might seem. It could be the cleaning agents you have started using in the darkroom or a new fragrance totally unrelated to your photography work. Sometimes it is just acne, triggered by stress or a new local environment. Or if you started a new medication and walked in the sunshine, you could have a photosensitivity reaction. Nickel, the metal used in jewelry, belt buckles, and snaps, can also be a culprit; people who have had their ears pierced have a significantly higher incidence of contact dermatitis even years later! The good news is you can identify the cause with a patch test by your dermatologist. And don’t worry, it doesn’t hurt.
Ellen Marmur, M.D., is the Chief of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Surgery at the Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City. A skin cancer survivor herself, Marmur specializes in skin cancer surgery, cosmetic surgery, and women’s health dermatology. She recently published Simple Skin Beauty, a book that focuses on how to maintain the health and beauty of your skin at every stage of life.
tags: Ellen Marmur
Get Your Vitamin D And Keep Your Skin Protected, Too
October 22, 2009 10:53 am
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
I’ve heard a lot of talk recently about women not getting enough vitamin D and that this is potentially linked to a reliance on SPF products. Is this true? If so, how can I supplement the vitamin while still protecting my skin from harmful UV rays?
Studies support wearing sunscreen. A true vitamin D deficiency in an active, healthy woman below the age of 75 is unlikely. Despite the hype and misinformation over the years, I do believe you should pay attention to your vitamin D intake. Eat foods rich in vitamin D such as fortified pasta, breads, and orange juice, and those naturally rich in it, such as oily fish like salmon, and nuts. Also, feel free to take a multivitamin that is formulated within reasonable daily intake levels and includes other vitamins and minerals that can enhance absorption, like calcium. Vitamin toxicity incidences have increased since this alleged vitamin D deficiency epidemic has picked up steam. I’ve had patients who have tried megadoses for a few months only to feel worse and switch to a more natural approach: diet and exercise outdoors. You can wear your UV protection and walk to work and be confident you absorbed enough light energy to produce active vitamin D. If you are at all concerned, though, have your vitamin D levels checked at your next doctor’s appointment. Recently, variations between different tests led to different results, and many women were falsely diagnosed with vitamin D deficiency. Be sure your tests are done at a well-respected lab and that your doctor trusts their results. Remember, vitamin D and calcium are required for strong bones. But there is absolutely no sense in sacrificing your skin when you have so many safer options. Dermatologists have investigated this issue and recommend women continue using sun protection.
Ellen Marmur, M.D., is the Chief of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Surgery at the Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City. A skin cancer survivor herself, Marmur specializes in skin cancer surgery, cosmetic surgery, and women’s health dermatology. She recently published Simple Skin Beauty, a book that focuses on how to maintain the health and beauty of your skin at every stage of life.
tags: Ellen Marmur, Vitamin D
Oils vs. Creams: The Moisturizer Face-Off
October 21, 2009 3:11 pm
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
A friend of mine has recently been touting the benefits of face oils over regular cream moisturizers, and I’m wondering if there is any truth to her ravings. If so, what kind of oils should I be slathering on my face?
The bigger truth is that there are many ways to moisturize, and it all comes down to personal preference. Oils, creams, ointments, sprays, and roll-ons all vary as vehicles that carry the main ingredients. When thinking about skincare products, there are active ingredients and there are vehicles. Moisturizers are complex combinations of occlusives, humectants, hydrocolloids, and emollients. They block water from evaporating out of the skin, suck water up into the top Gore-Tex-like layer of the stratum corneum, seal the skin, and fill in the cracks. Face oils and regular cream moisturizers are often a mixture of these categories, so as to provide the best skin barrier. You don’t even have to understand the basics about the skin’s anatomy to know that well-moisturized skin is more beautiful and much healthier than dry skin. New face oils are better at moisturizing than the baby oils of the past because the blend of water-retaining ingredients is more advanced than ever before. However, the occlusive components to face oils offer about 50 percent efficacy against water loss from the skin, compared to the 99 percent efficacy of petrolatum ointments. For those of you who do not suffer from tight-feeling dry skin, that may be perfect. I still prefer a silky, thick cream, or sometimes even a greasy ointment, on my skin to an oil. Even so, for a nice face oil, check its clarity and shine on your skin before you buy it. Check that it has mineral, coconut, or vegetable oil of some kind as the occlusive agent. Look for glycerin, too. Glycerin reduces transepidermal water loss up to 30 percent, and it is a humectant that draws water in. Other humectants are sorbitol, propylene glycol, urea, sodium lactate, and vitamins. Soy and oatmeal proteins may help, especially for dermatitis. If you want to be totally up-to-date, take note that new water channels called aquaporins have just been discovered in the skin. Aquaporins exist in rest of the body and transport water in and out of cells. In the skin, they also transport urea and glycerol. So when you pick up that tantalizing bottle of face oil off the shelf, turn it around and squint at that super-fine print. Scan the ingredients for the key words “glycerol” and “urea,” plus a few choice ones listed above.
Ellen Marmur, M.D., is the Chief of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Surgery at the Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City. A skin cancer survivor herself, Marmur specializes in skin cancer surgery, cosmetic surgery, and women’s health dermatology. She recently published Simple Skin Beauty, a book that focuses on how to maintain the health and beauty of your skin at every stage of life.
tags: Glycerin
The Dirty Truth About Soap
October 20, 2009 12:41 pm
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
I find that a lot of cleansers leave me feeling dried out, but not washing my face at least two times a day makes my skin feel grimy. Is there a certain kind of soap or scrub that’s less harsh?
I have been known to stupefy friends with my “Don’t wash your face with soap” dictum. Soap totally degrades the precious, silky, trace lipids that seal your skin barrier. If you know any science jargon about your skin, it should be two words: stratum corneum. This is the top layer of the skin, the one you touch, the one you wash, the one you scrub, exfoliate, pick, scratch, massage, and kiss. It also repels environmental assaults, and soap destroys it. How does this happen? Imagine red, tightly overlapping shingled roofs in China, Spain, or Mexico, where layered tiles are sealed together with mortar or glue as a simple waterproofing technique. The stratum corneum is constructed similarly from deeper cells that mature upward and outward, and, before they die, form a divine layer of lamellated cells locked together with permanent bonds and sealed with lipids. Now imagine that the roof mortar is defective. The tiles weather, crack, split, and fall away. This is what happens when you use harsh soaps on your skin: They seep in and disintegrate the lipids holding the stratum cornea together. You need to cherish your oils, rather than stripping them away twice, three times a day in the name of hygiene. Warm water and a simple wash cloth will remove 99 percent of the daily residue you detest. If aromatherapy is essential to your routine, squeeze lemon or ginger into a sink full of water before you splash, or make a lovely pitcher of mint and strawberry water with a dash of honey and use it anytime you feel the need for clean. New toners, which possess less alcohol than those in the past, are a great way to remove traces of mascara or makeup (but spare your cheeks whenever possible). I even multitask my creamy moisturizer as a makeup remover. Keep it simple, know your skin, learn, and be gorgeous.
Ellen Marmur, M.D., is the Chief of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Surgery at the Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City. A skin cancer survivor herself, Marmur specializes in skin cancer surgery, cosmetic surgery, and women’s health dermatology. She recently published Simple Skin Beauty, a book that focuses on how to maintain the health and beauty of your skin at every stage of life.
tags: Ellen Marmur
Get The Better Of Winter Skin
October 19, 2009 10:41 am
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
I’m beginning to notice signs of colder weather on my face and can’t seem to combat the dry patches and overriding dullness. What can I do now to prep for winter’s real onslaught in the next few months?
The leaves are falling, the barometer is on the descent, and your summer skin is officially in shock. But as odd as it sounds, this is the perfect time for a chemical peel. Like most people, you probably helped yourself to a little tanning when it was warmer. Tanning is trauma to the skin, though, and like a brushfire is to a forest, it can take clearing away this “debris” to accelerate the healing process. Something mild to moderate, like a Jessner’s peel, will remove the retained, dull skin and make way for new healthy skin to grow.
The second key step is to focus on moisturizers that are creamier. These products have added emollients that will fill in tiny cracks and smooth out your complexion. If you tend toward shiny, oily skin, try looking for silicone-based creams as they are oil-free. And always continue to use sun protection, no matter what time of year it is. I prefer those with UV blockers like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide because new research shows that, in addition to sunlight, interior light sources as well as infrared lights can damage deeper skin cells, and these ingredients are helpful as a broad-spectrum defense.
Winter heaters can also be a culprit. They are just as bad as air-conditioners when it comes to drying out the skin. Using a clean and fresh water humidifier will definitely help you get your beauty sleep.
Ellen Marmur, M.D., is the Chief of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Surgery at the Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City. A skin cancer survivor herself, Marmur specializes in skin cancer surgery, cosmetic surgery, and women’s health dermatology. She recently published Simple Skin Beauty, a book that focuses on how to maintain the health and beauty of your skin at every stage of life.
tags: Ellen Marmur, Jessner
Oz Garcia’s Fashion Week Meal Plan
September 14, 2009 1:33 pm
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
What is your recipe for a healthy daily diet to keep me going all day without making me feel too full and lethargic?
Preparing your body for a big day is important for keeping up your energy level, so to start, make sure to get plenty of rest, drink lots of water, and exercise regularly. Eating several smaller portions will also allow your body to drive more efficiently and you won’t get the highs and lows that are often associated with consuming a big meal. A Mediterranean-style diet rich in vegetables, fruits, and omega-3 fats will give you the energy you’re after and build up your immune system. On a particularly busy day, you should have a high-protein shake for breakfast, which helps clear your system of toxins and replaces them with a huge amount of vitamins. A few hours later, grab a handful of cashews, which are loaded with protein and heart-healthy fat. For lunch, go for a mid-sized Greek salad with fresh broiled fish and feta cheese. The omega-3s from the fish will keep your brain sharp, and feta cheese is packed with B-12, which is great for energy. In the late afternoon, you can munch on rice crackers with hummus. Chickpeas, the main ingredient in hummus, contain huge amounts of fiber that digests slowly and keeps blood sugar levels from rising too rapidly. Close out the day with some Japanese food. Rice, vegetables, and fish are an ideal meal that won’t weigh you down.
A highly regarded nutritional counselor and life extension specialist, Oz Garcia, Ph.D., has been labeled the “Nutritionist to the Stars.” Frequently featured in magazines and on news programs as an expert on health, wellness, and longevity, he is also a best-selling author and the head of health and nutritional services for Equinox Fitness Clubs worldwide.
tags: Oz Garcia
Oz Garcia’s Plea To Fashionistas Everywhere: Get Your Beauty Sleep
September 13, 2009 10:42 am
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
My job keeps me pretty busy and I find that I am functioning on less and less sleep these days. How many hours of sleep are required for adequate refreshment and renewal?
Depending on your activity and energy levels, you should be sleeping seven to nine hours a night. One of the problems we have is that the busier we get, the less we sleep. In fact, the busier we get the more sleep we need. A restful night’s sleep helps balance hormones, stabilize weight gain, and can actually slow down the aging process. Our growth hormone, which helps process glucose, is the body’s primary fuel. When we are young, the growth hormone triggers growth. As we pass through puberty, these hormones function as a kind of youth-maintenance device that helps keep tissue healthy, skin tight and bones dense. Without our growth hormone working, glucose begins to be stored as fat and leads to weight gain. In addition, when the brain is deprived of sleep, reaction tests start mimicking the results of someone who is legally drunk. So while you might think that you are being more productive professionally by sacrificing sleep, you’re really causing your body to be less efficient and effective. So put the computer down, turn off the television and get some well needed rest.
A highly regarded nutritional counselor and life extension specialist, Oz Garcia, Ph.D., has been labeled the “Nutritionist to the Stars.” Frequently featured in magazines and on news programs as an expert on health, wellness, and longevity, he is also a best-selling author and the head of health and nutritional services for Equinox Fitness Clubs worldwide.
Tammy Fender Speaks The Truth About Tightening Serums
September 8, 2009 2:12 pm
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
Do any firming skincare lotions really work and if so, are there specific ingredients I should be looking for that will actually tighten my skin and minimize my pores?
When it comes to firming and improving the overall tone and elasticity of the skin, there are many botanical ingredients that provide these benefits while healing and enhancing vibrancy. Chamomile, helichrysum, neroli, and vitamins A, E, and C, can work to tighten the connective tissue, increase the production and formation of collagen and elastin fibers, and offer vasoconstricting properties to your skin. As the skin is a transdermal organ, meaning all that is applied externally quickly absorbs to feed and nourish the body at a cellular level, you can also double the effects of these ingredients by consuming nutrient-rich foods that contain similar vitamins and minerals to achieve rapid results that will reveal visible improvements to your complexion.
A psychology major turned renowned facialist, Tammy Fender has become one of the most sought-after holistic skincare experts in the country for her unique approach, which targets the “whole person.” Relying on the healing properties of essential oils, she has created a successful custom-blended product line and operates a treatment studio in West Palm Beach, Florida.
tags: Skincare, Tammy Fender
A Guide To Under-Eye Care, Courtesy Of Tammy Fender
September 4, 2009 1:16 pm
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
I wear a lot of under-eye concealer and the skin in that area often gets dry, so the pigment from my concealer looks cakey. Should I be using a primer or an eye cream as prep before applying makeup and if so, do you have a recommendation for a product that will be good for my sensitive skin?
This is a common skin concern, as the delicate area around the eye contains no oil glands and is often one of the first places to show age in the form of fine lines and wrinkles. Often the concealer that is being used will contain synthetic ingredients, which act as drying agents to the tissues of the skin and further exacerbate the problem. An eye cream or gel is an important part of one’s skincare routine and should be used a.m. and p.m.—and as often as needed throughout the day—to soothe, cool, hydrate, firm, and protect. It is also beneficial to utilize the techniques of manual lymph drainage when applying your eye cream, to activate stagnant and sluggish lymph that accumulates from toxins and lack of rest. This stagnancy leads to dark under-eye circles, puffiness, and dullness. Start from the inner corners of the eye and lightly tap outward to the temple and then downward to the ear, throat, and neck, as this will expel any lymph out and away from the eye area. When choosing an eye cream, select a formulation with hydrating botanicals, herbal extracts, and omegas 3 and 6, which are found in chamomile, rose-hip seed, green myrtle, nettle, and elder flower—a combination that is nourishing and toning while serving to increase elasticity and renew softness. As a final step, mixing your concealer with your eye cream is a great way to keep the eye area supple and hydrated and eliminate the dry and cakey look of dehydrated skin.
A psychology major turned renowned facialist, Tammy Fender has become one of the most sought-after holistic skincare experts in the country for her unique approach, which targets the “whole person.” Relying on the healing properties of essential oils, she has created a successful custom-blended product line and operates a treatment studio in West Palm Beach, Florida.
tags: Skincare, Tammy Fender
Diamonds In The Rough? Tammy Fender Weighs In On Gemstone Facials
September 3, 2009 11:53 am
This column features weekly tips and advice from a revolving cast of industry leaders, on hand to discuss your beauty dilemmas, from blemishes to Botox. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@condenast.com.
I keep hearing about new facials with diamond dust and precious gemstones that are supposed to help center your body’s energy fields and lead to a better complexion. Are there real benefits to these treatments or is it all just a bunch of hype?
All precious metals, minerals, and gemstones carry their own energy and can be beneficial and healing when utilized in their purest form. However, it is important to understand that as powerful as these substances are in their unadulterated state, when they are used in treatments, benefits to the skin and body can only be realized if the substances have not been diluted or “manufactured.” Marketers play up the luxury side of diamonds and platinum to place higher price tags on spa services. It is essential to separate factual benefits from the hype and choose a treatment that has the intention of healing through the use of positive energy fields and balance.
A psychology major turned renowned facialist, Tammy Fender has become one of the most sought-after holistic skincare experts in the country for her unique approach, which targets the “whole person.” Relying on the healing properties of essential oils, she has created a successful custom-blended product line and operates a treatment studio in West Palm Beach, Florida.
tags: Skincare, Tammy Fender
