22 posts tagged "Aaron De Mey"
Despite last season’s brow heroics, in which blocked-out arches and fuller-framed styles made repeat catwalk appearances on both sides of the Atlantic, we haven’t seen much of either look in New York this week. Until yesterday, that is, when both Narciso Rodriguez and The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen decided to put the focus back on forehead fringe. Rodriguez left the task of creating something “perfect and strong” in the hands of makeup artist Dick Page, who prefers a cream or a wax when it comes to catching each individual brow hair. “You don’t want to mess with them too much,” he said, pointing out that bleaching or over-grooming can do more harm than good when you’re trying to create simplicity and sleekness. Page used a brush to personally apply a combination of Shiseido’s Accentuating Cream Eyeliner in Black and White to each model. At The Row, makeup artist Aaron De Mey also took the task onto himself, relying on Lancôme’s Le Crayon Poudre powder pencils to “naturally strengthen” each model’s face. “Never did they say, make the girls look like us,” De Mey’s coiffing partner, Jimmy Paul, said of the inspiration the Olsens gave both men (Paul was charged with re-creating a “downtown cool girl” in the form of matte texture and piece-y-ness), but close followers of the sisters’ style will definitely recognize this newfound part of their personal beauty regime living large on the runway.
One of the hottest tickets at NYFW this season is shaping up to be The Row, the Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen-designed line that will make its catwalk debut on February 16. The prospect of seeing what the sisters can do live and in person—and maybe catch a glimpse of either or both of them (or Nate Lowman) backstage—is exciting enough for us to add the presentation to our color-coded Excel spreadsheet, but things just got a little more interesting. Style.com has learned that one Aaron De Mey—the Lancôme artistic director of makeup and the man that Riccardo Tisci trusts for both his ready-to-wear and couture shows—will be doing the backstage face painting. (Three words on Mr. De Mey’s handiwork at the Givenchy Fall 2009 Couture presentation: gilded face rhinestones.) His presence at The Row’s show should add a layer of wow to what we’re already expecting to be a pretty exciting 15 minutes.
A newfound love for Manic Panic may not have made it to the Europe shows, but brow-bleaching—in all of its weird, futuristic glory—has been the rage from Milan to Paris. Despite the fact that Chanel Iman recently came out on behalf of the long-legged-model set to say that walking sans brows makes her feel like she’s “from another planet,” designers continue to instruct their backstage teams with the same four words: Blank out those brows. Aaron De Mey is the latest makeup artist to employ the technique, sending nothing but forehead out onto the Givenchy runway yesterday. But De Mey added a touch of voluptuousness to the otherwise androgynous look by employing a simple lip-plumping technique that doesn’t require tingling serums or vials of collagen. He used a brown liner to lightly trace the outer corners of models’ lips, adding a touch of caramel color to the centers to give the illusion of fuller pouts. We saw Stéphane Marais do something similar at Zac Posen, with a gray liner and pink gloss. It’s an easy way to retain a touch of femininity (and humanity)—you know, if you decide to erase your arches for spring.
Backstage at Narciso Rodriguez this week, makeup artist Dick Page chose to go without mascara. When a stunned journalist asked him why—”everyone needs mascara!” she exclaimed—Page disagreed. “I don’t really get it,” he said. “I think blusher is way more important. If you’re at death’s door, a little bit will get you through the interview.” And he’s not the only one of this opinion. Hefty helpings of true pink blush—and in some cases a corresponding pink eye and lip to go with it—might be the Spring makeup story to come out of New York fashion week. Lancôme artistic director for makeup Aaron De Mey’s version of the monochromatic look backstage at L’Wren Scott yesterday was possibly its most beautiful outing. Working with Scott’s collection of sheath dresses in shades of dusty pink, deep rose, soft pink, and beige, De Mey chose Lancôme Color Design Blush in Pret-a-Plum and dabbed it onto the apples of models’ cheeks, working upward toward the temple. “L’Wren wanted very matte, powdery skin,” he explained, so his pinks went onto a velvety base that recalled the Edwardian era from which Scott drew inspiration for her designs. The pièce de résistance of De Mey’s handiwork, however, was the lip he built with Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge Lipcolor in Berry Noir topped off with a coating of its Color Fever Gloss in Molten, which provided a bee-stung effect with a glassy finish. As a naughty aside, manicurist Yuna Park painted the nails in Lancôme’s Untamed Plum, a blackened aubergine shade that will debut with its Holiday collection in November. (Word on the street is that the lacquers that premiere at Scott’s show tend to sell out upon release, so keep an eye out for this one.)
So enamored was I with the backstage beauty look at the Givenchy Couture show yesterday, I went as far as to call my boyfriend over to the computer to have a peek. “Just look at the showmanship,” I said, pointing out the precision with which makeup artist Aaron De Mey and his team placed individual rhinestones onto models’ faces while hairstylist Luigi Murenu painted black gloss onto their hair for stark uniformity. He surveyed the situation with genuine interest and let out a very sincere, “That’s cool. What does it look like all finished?” And so, trying to contain my excitement as we perused the full slideshow, I took him through the 21-piece collection and we marveled at the union of beauty and fashion, together. Sigh…