12 posts tagged "Acne"
After a Fall show season full of colorful cat-eyes (blue at Anna Sui, chartreuse at VPL, red at 3.1 Phillip Lim) and abstract interpretations of graphic black etchings (Tom Pecheux’s double line at Altuzarra and Andrew Gallimore’s “floating” triangles at Erdem immediately come to mind), eyeliner appears to be continuing its backstage domination well into Resort. To reflect the cruise season’s textures, bold prints, and pops of color, designers like Acne’s Jonny Johansson, Antonio Marras, and Roksanda Ilincic have been requesting inventively lined lids rather than more obvious bright lips, when it comes to statement-making face painting.
It all started at Acne, where Lisa Butler used Sunday Riley’s forthcoming Velvet Gel Pencil in Pitch Black to create thick geometric wings on the inner and outer corners of models’ lids. The technique, which she completed by filling in the shapes with Riley’s Eye Color in Little Black Dress, was something of an optical illusion: At first glance, girls appeared to be sporting a perfectly normal flick, but a subtle blink of the eye revealed a much more detailed design. Jeanine Lobell followed suit at Stella McCartney, adding “a little bit of an edge” to McCartney’s normally fresh-faced vision with a black line along the lower lash line only.
Then Isabella Sabbioni took things Technicolor at Antonio Marras this week, cashing in traditional black kohl for a flash of jade green pigment, which she thickly scrawled along both the upper and lower lash lines, dragging her brush outward and upward toward the temple. At Roksanda Ilincic, Lauren Parsons stayed the colored course, blending MAC Pigments in coral and fuchsia with its Mixing Medium gloss to create a blurred red half moon through models’ creases. “It’s a different effect from every angle,” Parsons noted of her handiwork that was meant to look as though “it wasn’t too thought about. Effortless beauty rules,” she says—a boon to amateur makeup artists looking to experiment with pro liner techniques in the comfort of their own homes.
Beauty And The Beat: Eight-Day-Old Hair, Phillip Lim Shorts, And More Coachella Prep From St. Vincent’s Annie Clark
This year’s Coachella lineup is packed with women who know how to command a crowd, wield a mascara wand—and wear a blue sequined pantsuit with gusto. Feist, Cat Power, and Florence Welch will all be flexing their vocal chords this weekend (and next) in Indio, California. But when it comes to subtle beauty, few can top Annie Clark, a.k.a. St. Vincent. The multi-instrumentalist has captivated audiences with her small but powerful voice, delicately painted lips, and raven-hued ringlets since releasing her first solo album, Marry Me, in 2007—the fashion world included; Clark has performed at Rachel Comey’s Spring 2010 show and frequently sits front-row at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Five years and two albums later (her most recent, Strange Mercy, came out last fall) and Clark is just as luminous. But how will her halo of curls and porcelain skin fare in the desert? Style.com checked in with the art-pop musician to find out what festival-ready hair products she’s stocked up on, her enviable suitcase of designer duds, and why you should never, ever eat the catering backstage.
You’ve got an amazing mess of curly hair. How do you keep it in shape when you play outside?
Gone are the days of haphazardly cutting my own hair in a dorm room. Now I go see Peter Gray every three to four months and he keeps me on track. Then I usually just run some Bumble and bumble Deeep into it when it’s wet, then let it air-dry. Hair starts looking its best when it hasn’t been washed for approximately seven to 10 days. I should be at day eight on the first weekend [of Coachella]!
You’re practically a fashion week regular at this point. Does it make you feel like you need to step up your game when it comes to choosing onstage outfits?
I was raised by jazz musicians who wouldn’t dream of stepping onstage unless they looked “proper.” It was a show of respect to the audience in those days: If you’re onstage asking people to look at you, you ought to look put-together. I tend to abide by this philosophy.
With a unique ability to give hair that hard-to-execute edgy-but-chic, done-but-undone quality, Paul Hanlon has become the preferred coiffing star of fashion’s reigning cool kids: Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Giles, and Jonathan Saunders are all card-carrying members of the Hanlon fan club. After a number of high-octane performances over the last week and a half, we may have witnessed Hanlon’s finest work last night at Ance. “It’s that Debbie Harry thing, when she used to bleach her hair but keep it dark underneath,” Hanlon said backstage, where he was adding extensions to models’ hair in shades that contrasted with their natural color. “It’s supposed to look grungy,” he continued, choosing clusters of black, mousy brown, or honeyed red locks, which he prepped with L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.art Volume Architect Thickening Blow Dry Lotion and its Infinium hair spray for body and texture. To give the whole thing a “dangerous” quality, Hanlon artfully sprayed tinted dry shampoo onto the roots so it appeared as though a good amount of post-dye-job regrowth had taken place, too.
Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni—a frequent Hanlon collaborator and last season’s champion of the full, boyish brow—had busied herself with the task of crafting “bronze-y, ruddy, dusty faces—as though the girls have been hanging out in the Arizona desert.” MAC’s Mineral Powder in Mineral Deep provided Pieroni’s desired shade of “terra-cotta tan,” while its new-for-Spring Metallix Infusion Eyeshadow in Rust was smudged onto eyelids, around the temples, and onto cheeks for a deep-toned shine. To finish off what amounted to a fairly monochrome face—save for bold brows that were filled in with MAC Eyeshadow in Omega, Copperpot, Brun, and Typographic—Pieroni slicked on a rusty nude lip using a blend of MAC lipsticks in Freckletone and Fresh Brew.
Emma Stone and Olivia Wilde are the new “glamorous, confident, and bold” women of Revlon. The two beauties join a group of Revlon faces that includes Kate Hudson, Jessica Biel, Jessica Alba, Halle Berry, and Elle Macpherson. Can’t wait for the Stone and Wilde-endorsed products to hit shelves in early 2012? Revlon’s Facebook and Twitter fans will be treated to sneak previews. [WWD]
The term “sugar lips” just got a lot more literal. Violent Lips, a temporary tattoo company, has teamed up with the candy accessories brand Sugar Factory to create a limited-edition collection of candy-themed temporary
lip tattoos. We wonder, can anyone but Gaga pull these off? [Racked]
Model Jessica Stam opened up her beauty bag this week for Into the Gloss readers. Find out how she keeps her skin looking blemish-free, what men’s deodorant she prefers, how she gets a smoldering smoky eye, and more. [Into the Gloss]
A new study shows that a low-carb diet results in a clearer complexion. The gist of it is that eating less bread can help control your glucose levels and improve your skin. All that and lose weight, too? Sign us up. [Independent]
After Jonny Johansson showed his Fall 2010 Acne collection in London last week, it became commonly known that the Swedish designer still plays with action figures. What was less widely reported from the Clone Wars-inspired show: He likes to dabble in fragrances, specifically capturing a room through scent as a means of creating physical memory. Enlisting Byredo’s Ben Gorham, with whom he collaborated on that epically enjoyable scented candle for Fashion’s Night Out last fall, he filled the show’s train garage location with a perfume that boasted hints of cinnamon, ginger, lavender, and clove leaves with an aftermath of smoky birch notes. The fragrance was gifted to showgoers the night of the presentation and is allegedly not going to be produced in further quantities. So, who’s got a bottle—and when are you going to put it up for auction on eBay so I, er, interested parties, can get spritzing?