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July 26 2014

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9 posts tagged "Alberta Ferretti"

The Life Aquatic, Backstage At Alberta Ferretti

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The “girl coming out of the water” motif that tends to rear its soaking wet head come Spring is oft-charted territory. But there is something singularly gorgeous about it when it’s executed well—particularly when damp strands and luminous skin are paired with diaphanous, flowing, bead-encrusted fabrics like the ones Alberta Ferretti sent down her runway.

“It’s a wet look,” Guido Palau confirmed backstage at the designer’s show, spritzing strands with water before raking in a good amount of Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam mousse and finishing with a few pumps of its Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist. “There is a feminine softness to it, though,” Palau insisted, which came from ridged waves that he created by combing hair backward away from the hairline and setting it in a series of low, loose buns that were taken out just before the show to create definition and movement through the lengths.

Makeup artist Diane Kendal picked a palette of shimmering gold and silver to hold up her end of the watery bargain. Prepping fashion week-weary complexions with her trusty bottle of organic rosewater “to freshen the skin,” Kendal created a base with MAC Face and Body Foundation, contouring with its Powder Blush in Taupe and using its Powder Blush in Peaches to impart a warm flush to cheeks. But Kendal’s main focus was eyes, which she coated with MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Copper Beach to serve as a tinted canvas for its Pigments in Gold and Tan that were dusted across lids for a metallic shine. Skipping mascara, as she’s been wont to do this season, Kendal drew a fine stroke of MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack along the upper lash line for definition. A final sweep of MAC Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk across cheekbones created a reflective surface that contrasted with the mattifying Prep + Prime Transparent Finish Powder the face painter patted down the T-zone.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.con

Guido Palau On The Toughness That’s “Going Around” For Fall

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A few gravity-defying stunts in New York notwithstanding, big, voluminous hair is being gradually phased out for Fall; in its place, the coiffing establishment is pledging its collective allegiance to straight, sleek, and “skinny” strands. “There seems to be a toughness going around,” Guido Palau admitted backstage at Alberta Ferretti yesterday, where he was adding to the season’s lookbook of strict styles with a middle-parted, low-slung chignon that he slicked down with Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist and its Fashion Work 12 Versatile Working Spray. “It can be great, but big hair can also look old. And there’s a real feeling in general in hair right now about modernism,” Palau continued, pointing out that while Ferretti is a romantic designer, she was going for something more architectural and almost masculine this season. Cue Diane Kendal’s clean skin, sculpted lids, and full brows. “It’s still beautiful, but it’s also strong and sculpted,” the makeup artist said of the mix of MAC Eyeshadows in Bone Beige, Bamboo, and Shroom that she layered onto lids, adding its new-for-fall Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Fashion Fix, a taupey gray, through the crease and up across the brow bone. A thin line of black cream liner close to the upper lash line and a single coat of black mascara added a touch of femininity, which kept the boyish arches and muted lip from looking too androgynous.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Swing On: The Sixties Trump The Seventies Backstage At Alberta Ferretti

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“Almost Twiggylike but with a boyish feel” is how hairstylist Guido Palau described the sleek, swooping chignons he constructed at Alberta Ferretti yesterday. Prepping hair with Redken’s Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow-Dry Gel, Palau carved out deep side parts and coated sections in Redken’s Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing Spray before softly teasing to create “Bardot-like” height and texture in the back. His next move was to pull models’ manes into low-lying ponytails, which he twisted into buns and secured with bobby pins to hold. A good helping of Redken’s forthcoming Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist slathered onto the surface of the style provided that expertly molded, shiny effect.

The Queen of Carnaby Street was also well represented in Lucia Pieroni’s sixties makeup, which featured one of the era’s lasting beauty trends, spider lashes—which, it should be noted, seem poised for a resurgence for Fall 2011. (They’ve already been spotted this week at Gucci.) Leaving skin bare, save for a dusting of MAC Prep + Prime Finishing Powder and its Select Moisturecover Concealer where needed, Pieroni applied its Sculpt & Shape Powder in Sculpt along cheekbones for a highlighted sheen. Eyes were treated to a slick of MAC Paintpot in Groundwork, a dark taupe, for an exaggerated natural look, which Pieroni amped up using MAC Eyeliner in Coffee along the outer corners of both lash lines and multiple swipes of its Zoom Lash Mascara on both top and bottom lashes. To finish the look, Pieroni painted lips a shade of creamy nude/pink using MAC Lipstick in Snob. It was simple, subtle, yet somehow totally affecting—and ripe for at-home duplication.

Photo: Matt Lever / Courtesy of Redken

Green Is Good

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When we first spied makeup artist Gucci Westman applying a highly pigmented emerald eye shadow on models’ lids at Oscar de la Renta’s Spring show, we took pause. “Green?” we thought to ourselves. “How…unexpected.” It took us a little while to process, but when we saw the color again in its soft moss incarnation at Alberta Ferretti a week or so later, we had already arrived at a conclusion: We’re into it. And so is W Korea, as evidenced by this Hyun Jeong Ji-fronted editorial in this month’s issue. Whereas both runway versions of the verdant eye were paired with a nude lip, the on-set face painter really went for it with this shoot, adding a glossy watermelon pout to complement a luxurious silk and satin jewel-toned ensemble and an oversize fur coat. Too much color, or the right amount of pop?

Photo: From left, Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com; Christopher Wadsworth for W Korea, December 2010; Olivier Morin / AFP / Getty Images

Sage Advice Backstage At Alberta Ferretti

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We liked it backstage at Oscar de la Renta, and in its second outing at Alberta Ferretti’s Spring show yesterday, green eye shadow endeared itself to us even further. “Woodland nymph” is what makeup artist Lucia Pieroni was going for when she swiped MAC’s Eye Shadow in Juxt, a shimmering gilded moss color, onto models’ eyes, sheering it out as she moved toward the temple. A dusting of MAC’s Pigment in Vanilla on the center of lids provided that ethereal fairylike glow, which hairstylist Guido Palau complemented with what he called “natural bohemian hair.” Prepping strands with Redken’s Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow Dry Gel, Palau scrunched and finger-combed tresses as he dried, individualizing each model’s texture before she hit the runway.

Photo: Olivier Morin / AFP / Getty Images