27 posts tagged "Alexander McQueen"
If the lace masks at Sarah Burton’s show for Alexander McQueen looked familiar, it’s because anyone who made it to the wildly successful exhibition celebrating the house’s late namesake designer at the Met this summer has seen something like them before. “The idea came from the masks we created for the McQueen exhibit,” confirmed Guido Palau, who dreamt up another series of similar headgear with Burton for Spring. “People expect a little fantasy from this show,” Palau pointed out, which he delivered by weaving tight, half-inch-thick rings of braids all around models’ heads. “It’s like a wig wrap, but I wanted it to look more embellished,” he explained—which happened to be the complete opposite of Peter Philips’ M.O. “It’s almost like a sculpture,” the famed face painter said of the full-body muting technique he employed, applying a continuous wash of Chanel Pro Lumiere foundation on faces, limbs—anywhere skin was showing. “It’s all the same color; we wanted to make sure everything was covered,” he said, taking the season’s monochrome makeup trend to the next level. While Philips finger-pressed foundation into lips as well, there was one area of the face that he enhanced: the brows. “We tried bleaching them, but it looked too alien,” he said, opting instead to flatten arches, coating them in the same latex-based glue he used only a few hours earlier at Chanel. “It puts some life back inside those masks.”
The real embellishment was left to Minx co-founders Dawn Lynch-Goodwin and Janice Jordan. Back in London, manicurist Marian Newman told us that Burton had given the women four words to use for inspiration when conceiving a series of different nail overlays for her to choose from for the show; today came the big reveal. “Water, mother-of-pearl, shell, and sea foam,” she said, applying the six winning designs to models’ tips. Using three different bases of pink, beige, and ivory, Jordan and Lynch-Goodwin layered different combinations of Minx in holographic gold and silver on top to create “organic, random” layered patterns. “It took over 1,000 man hours,” Jordan proclaimed. If the crowd at Centquatre wanted fantasy, they no doubt left satisfied.
After making a huge splash in New York during Fashion’s Night Out with the introduction of its highly successful collaboration with Marc by Marc Jacobs, Minx—like the rest of the fashion pack—has moved its creative team to Europe for a select list of shows. We had the pleasure of catching up with founders Janice Jordan and Dawn Lynch-Goodwin and their go-to manicurist, Marian Newman, backstage at David Koma this week, where they were busy Minxing (it’s an adjective now; get into it) models with a selection of 20 different pastel nail overlays topped with a clear tip that had been emblazoned with a white, dévoré tribal pattern. “That’s the unifying part,” Newman said of the acrylic crystalline print. It won’t be their last experimentation with exotic prints for Spring, either. “We’re doing Missoni for the first time this season—it’s a whole new design direction for them,” Newman said, alluding to the fact that Jordan and Lynch-Goodwin have been hard at work on a series of Minx that pays homage to the Italian house’s rich history with prints for its presentation on Sunday. “It’ll be their interpretation of those prints, of course,” Newman continued of the process that goes into creating a series of nail designs for each show once inspiration ideas come in from designers. “For McQueen, they gave me four words for references, and Dawn and Janice are reinterpreting those words with nails. We’re really excited about that show.” Us too.
Whether or not Kate Middleton will become a style icon remains to be seen (although all signs point to yes, if her Alexander McQueen wedding gown is any indication), but she’s definitely a beauty icon with an enviably shiny mane of chestnut locks. While the tiara-encrusted “demi-chignon” she sported at Westminster Abbey today may have taken the talents of super-stylists James Pryce and Richard Ward working in tandem, similarly glimmering strands are now achievable thanks to the latest release from Bumble and Bumble. The next generation of Bumble’s well-loved shine products, which started with a silicone gloss and evolved into an aerosol spray, the new Let It Shine trio features a shampoo, conditioner and a non-aerosol, light-catching styling spray. We’ve found that most of Bb’s shampoos and conditioners impart that coveted gleam, but this line is specifically designed to do so using sunflower seed oil to dissolve built-up residue and preserve natural oils at the same time. The glossing mist provides an extra finishing step to help control flyaways while creating a slight, piece-y texture, which we love. Think of it as a way to make the most of a gorgeous spring day; nothing accessorizes a sundress and wedge-heeled sandals like supremely sparkling hair.
“You’ve got to mention Goody,” Guido Palau modestly implored as the oohs and ahhs over his “hair helmet” backstage at McQueen started flying. The popular mass-market hair accessory brand sent him 6,000 silver and metallic black barrettes for the show, which were splayed out in Tupperware buckets in a cavernous area behind the makeshift runway setup at La Concierge. With 100 barrettes designated to each of the 34 models in Sarah Burton’s show, Palau used over half of them.
This is the second extraordinary coiffing feat the shear genius has pioneered with Burton, after implementing box-woven panels at her debut outing last season. “I know the DNA of the brand—I’ve worked with them for so long so it’s almost instinctual. Sarah is the same way,” Palau said. For Fall, the idea was “robotic and fetishistic—almost futuristic,” which Palau achieved by essentially covering the whole head with metal, either in linear patterns or crisscrossed shapes. “I tried it on a ponytail originally but we wanted to take it to another level.” (Suffice it to say, mission accomplished). “[It’s] strong but still beautiful—not weird and ugly, but aesthetically and visually pleasing,” Palau pointed out of the style—not unlike the “Crystal Cave” nail designs Minx co-founder Dawn Lynch-Goodwin had flown in for the show from L.A. by way of the Eurostar from London. “We presented 20 to 22 different designs in the theme of the ‘Ice Maiden’ inspiration,” Lynch-Goodwin said, explaining that the winning nail was taken from an image of an ice storm seen through the confines of a cave.
Famed face painter Peter Philips was also building off his new relationship with Burton by playing up a similarly ethereal look to the paled-out faces and golden highlights he designed for Spring. “We’re trying to find an identity here—the Alexander McQueen girl,” Philips said. “The clothes are like armor, so we didn’t want to distract from that with complicated makeup.” The result was alabaster skin, which Philips created using his go-to bottle of Chanel Pro-Lumiere Foundation in #10, the lightest shade in the range, whitened even further with a special mix of shimmering pearl pigment that was blended into the base. After lining lids with Chanel Le Crayon Yeux in Khaki Platine, Philips dusted shimmering ivory and gold highlights onto the sides of the face, the nose bridge, the inner corners of the eye, and the cupid’s bow of models’ mouths “just to bring it all alive so they don’t look dead.”
As yet another example of Fall’s departure from the color-blocking of seasons’ past—the bold lip colors, pastel nail varnishes, and bright eye shadows that have made a comeback of late—Philips pointed out that he is embracing a new, “cocooning effect” of makeup. “It’s less graphic and more about applying pigments with your fingers while playing with shine and luminosity. But that’s just my opinion”—which holds a lot of weight, as far as this reporter is concerned.
Minx has been grabbing headlines left and right in recent weeks. In addition to securing a U.S. patent on its unique method for applying non-liquid graphic films to nails (imitators, beware) and introducing a new collaboration series with super-manicurists like Lisa Logan (Beyoncé, Mary J. Blige, and Queen Latifah) and Marian Newman (Givenchy, Vivienne Westwood, and Valentino), the brand has been killing it backstage at shows like Dennis Basso in New York and David Koma in London. And its newfound role as newsmaker doesn’t look to be losing steam anytime soon. Style.com has just learned that Minx co-founders Janice Jordan and Dawn Lynch-Goodwin will be in full force at Gareth Pugh, at Thierry Mugler for Nicola Formichetti’s first womenswear collection for the house, and at Alexander McQueen—where, lest we remind you, the duo premiered one of Spring’s best manis: a copper patterned tip layered over a gold base that was inspired by look 26 from Sarah Burton’s runway debut. What will they come up with next? You’ll find out next week. (We know, we’re excited too.)