30 posts tagged "Alexander McQueen"
Yesterday was a busy one for Peter Philips. In addition to choreographing the sensational smoky-eye display at Chanel, the makeup artist headed up face-painting duties at Alexander McQueen as well, a show that couldn’t have been more different, beauty-wise. “Light, luminous, gothic” is how Philips described the clean, glowing skin that Sarah Burton wanted to complement her “Earth Mother” debut collection for the house. “We decided to keep the girl really pure, very serene, almost a bit more fragile—and a bit more girly,” Philips said backstage—a departure, to be sure, from the more outrageous feats he has put together here in the past (three words: amphibious facial prosthetics). To achieve this effect, Philips used Chanel’s Pro Lumiere Semi-Matte Foundation, adding a sheen to eyelids with its Ombre Essentielle eye shadow in Ivory and a highlight to cheeks with the brand’s Poudre Lumiere Perlée for a hint of shimmer.
Philips’ deliberate decision to eschew mascara, shading, and color in general is a continuation of a general theme at this show, in which he typically casts a neutral color palette to make room for big hair and big scenery. The latter may have been more subdued for Spring 2011, but Guido Palau’s coifs were as intricate as ever, albeit a touch softer. “There were many permutations,” Palau said of the basket-weaving technique he ultimately employed backstage. “But in the end it was highly technical yet very simple.” Working off a pagan theme, Palau divided models’ hair into three sections before adding extensions over and under natural strands for a woven effect, ending each panel in a skinny braid. Back panels were folded flat against the head and pinned in place before the entire head was sprayed with Redken’s Forceful 23 hair spray—and lots of it. At last count, 60 bottles had been used to hold things in place.
It wasn’t necessarily an intentional homage, but the similarity was undeniable. At last night’s Threeasfour show, hairstylist Ashley Javier’s matted-down finger waves and side-swept updos encased by a fishnet stocking cap screamed Alexander McQueen circa Spring 2009. Javier explained that he chose the graphic style to incorporate the curvature and snakelike patterns of the collection into the hair, and his tribute was more of an evolution of the technique that McQueen dreamed up with coif master Paul Hanlon and makeup artist Peter Philips in Paris two years ago than a direct rip-off. Javier crimped models’ entire heads to create volume and texture and then brushed all the hair over to one side, coating it with Kérastase Double Force hair spray and gathering it into what he described as a “neck rest” rather than a bun. The netting kept the S shapes from the back twist and the front tendrils that he would later pull out—as well as Andrea Helgadottir’s Egyptian-inspired eye—visible to make the connection from the face to the clothes. It worked well on the runway at Milk yesterday, and it was a moving reminder of the genius from whence it came.
We often give Dita Von Teese love on this blog for her perfectly curled-under raven locks, her powdered ivory skin, and the crimson-lip-plus-black-cat-eye combo that she’s made her everyday look. But her devotion to her fingertips also deserves some props; the burlesque queen is rarely spotted without a moon manicure, a 1940′s-era look that had a modern-day revival at the Fall shows (click here for our step-by-step guide to re-creating the style at home). This weekend, Von Teese sported a burgundy adaptation at a book signing in L.A., along with her Alexander McQueen Union Jack clutch. Thoughts on the paint job?
The trend of injecting collagen into your feet could make those S/S 2010 Alexander McQueen lobster claw platforms practical yet! [Daily Mail]
The curly-hair gene has been isolated. Next up, a straightening pill. Go ahead and toss your hot irons. [Telegraph]
According to a recent study, an obsession with being thin might be causing stress-induced hair loss in women over 25. To which we say, being skinny is overrated; long, lustrous locks are not. [Daily Mail]
The cruise ship industry is looking to class things up a bit with signature scents that can be pumped into individual cabins to “enhance passengers’ sense of well-being.” Whatever happened to enjoying the fresh sea breeze? [USA Today]
“Gone is the day of the perfect updo,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau recently declared over a preholiday lunch to discuss next season’s biggest hair trends. Palau has said goodbye to the pristine twists and turns of yesteryear and is advocating instead a new era that utilizes these same classic shapes with unexpected textures and a little less precision. “I tried to create a lot of variation on what real women—not just 16-year-old models—can wear,” he said of his most recent runway portfolio, which includes the coveted over-the-shoulder braids at both Alexander Wang and Miu Miu, not to mention Prada’s pigtails and the mattified turbans-cum-chignons he coiffed backstage at Lanvin. “If a piece falls out or bobby pins are visible, all the better.” As for inspiration, there’s one place Palau isn’t looking these days: the red carpet. “I’m not really inspired by celebrities right now—except for Rihanna—because they all appear to be going to the same hairdresser,” he joked, pointing out that the long waves and hair extensions popular with the Hollywood set shouldn’t necessarily be emulated. “We need to communicate change!” he stressed. Change, like the amphibious ridges he sculpted at Alexander McQueen? “Well, fashion is there to amaze us, too,” Palau countered. “Not always to be worn, but to be marveled at.”