16 posts tagged "Altuzarra"
Flashback Friday is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin
The Moment: Glitter, glitter everywhere
The Motivation: With incredibly dreary weather descending upon New York (hello, Polar Vortex), it was with a very happy heart that we noticed an uplifting trend developing on the NYFW catwalks. Glitter, in all its glory, was popping up everywhere, from Altuzarra’s greenish-gold lids to Rodarte’s shimmering lips. This shot of Saint Louis Augustin from a 1997 issue of British Vogue is just another example of how sparkles (combined with a David Bowie-esque slash) can make a serious beauty statement.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux “believes in green” this season. And it all started with a velvet chair (shown here) posted by fellow face painter Gucci Westman. He used various iterations of the shade at multiple shows already—including Peter Som, Altuzarra, and Derek Lam. At Som it was an olive green (MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Au Nature). “This eyeshadow is so disgusting, but I love it,” he said. The same went for the lipstick in Siss, a yellow-based nude: “I call it like a bird poo color, but if you look at the two [products] together, how chic is that?” He rimmed the eyes with a peacock green liner pencil before blurring it with gloss to lend a lived-in look to the makeup (similar to the sixties-inspired hair created by Eugene Souleiman, which Pecheux described as a “perfect hairdo” that a girl has slept on for a week). At Altuzarra, he sprinkled glitter with green undertones on models’ lids, and for Lam he created a green-gray hue that was “organic” but “intense.” Pecheux proclaimed green the new black in a message to Westman on Instagram, but now he’s making his flippant comment a serious statement for Fall 2014.
Where makeup artist Tom Pecheux started is not where he wound up at Altuzarra. Inspired by the double-faced cashmere in the collection, his first instinct was to create a dual-colored eye. “It looked so uptown…a little bit tight-ass,” he said of the initial attempt. To loosen things up, he reached for a pot of MAC 3D Glitter in Brass Gold (a metallic with a green undertone) that was sitting on the table at the test, and the look suddenly fell into place. Or as the designer’s mother, Karen Altuzarra, quipped, “It was dumb luck.” To give the glitter something to grip onto, he prepped lids with concealer or foundation. Next, he coated a thin brush with Homeoplasmine before dipping it into the sparkles and running them along the upper lashes like liner. For a diffused effect, Pecheux used a dry, fluffy brush to pat more shimmery particles lightly up toward the brow bone. The rest of the face was kept neutral—including the lips, which were layered with a pink (Myself) and beige (Siss) hue to create the perfect flesh tone. And just before the models took to the runway, Pecheux placed lipstick in Good Kisser (a vivid fuchsia) messily into the crease of six models’ eyes. “We need to show luxury, but we have to be playful,” the face painter noted.
“Here is ballerina, here is madame, and here you don’t think,” hair pro Odile Gilbert said in regards to the placement of the textured chignons that rested squarely at the back of the head. She used nothing but her fingers to scrape strands back before coiling the length and securing it with “just three or four pins.” The finished product was meant to mimic how Kate Moss would craft her own bun. And honestly, who wouldn’t want to DIY that?
When I first spotted model Malaika Firth she was sitting on her mother’s lap backstage at Altuzarra. And throughout the remainder of the Spring 2014 season I bumped into Malaika and her mom again and again…and again. She made quite a debut—racking up an impressive fifty-five shows, as well as garnering spots in campaigns for Valentino, Burberry, and Prada. To cap off her year, Firth walked the glittery Victoria’s Secret runway alongside current supers such as Karlie Kloss and Cara Delevingne. The one thing that has eluded the young catwalker thus far: a beauty contract. Judging by this video on Instagram, during which she shows off her Maybelline Baby Lips balm, it won’t be long before this fashion darling is signing her name on the dotted line.
Alongside the plethora of colors used at many shows for Spring 2014 (Chanel, Céline, and Prada, to name just three), there were several designers that opted for a clean slate. (And no, I’m not talking about the bevy of “raw” hair and makeup looks that were also popular this season.) Instead, I’m referring to graphic bands of white drawn across models’ lids by Aaron de Mey at Kenzo, the alabaster pencil Tom Pecheux used instead of shadow (in order to “avoid flakes on the lashes”) to create a modern mod look at Ralph Lauren, and the combo of cream and powder he dusted on eyes at Altuzarra. Using the right tool to apply is also key to pulling off this color: For a subtle wash of white (as seen at Altuzarra), use a large, soft brush to blend, explained Pecheux. “If you use something very hard, [the color] is going to be very opaque and you will look like a panda,” he added. And while those rings might look adorable on cuddly bears, they definitely don’t have the same effect on people.
To see all of Spring’s top backstage trends, read our Beauty Moments feature.