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April 21 2014

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3 posts tagged "Andrew Gallimore"

“Sci-chedelic” Stepford Wives, Backstage At Erdem

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Gone was the Victoriana-goth girl that ruled the mood boards backstage at Erdem for Fall. In her place: “otherworldly creatures,” according to face painter Andrew Gallimore, who set to work sculpting a “much brighter, more luminous lady” for Spring.

“Sci-chedelic” is the neologism that was being bandied about between hair and makeup artists in reference to a certain sci-fi psychedelia that informed the beauty effort. “They’re supposed to be like an army of clones,” Gallimore explained, applying a base of MAC Mineralize Moisture Foundation and a touch of its Prep + Prime Finishing Powder. “It’s a bit Stepford Wife-y,” he continued, working its Strobe Cream into the nose bridge, cheeks, and the cupid’s bow of lips to create a futuristic luminosity. Curling the lashes and brushing brows upward, Gallimore slicked mouths with MAC Lipmix in Mid-Tone Nude before dabbing just the center with its Pigment in Neo-Orange to allow for a punchy pop of color.

“The whimsical, romantic Erdem girl has evolved into a tougher, more androgynous woman,” Charles Worthington artistic director Marc Trinder agreed, sculpting a clean, strong bun for the occasion. Coating strands with the brand’s new Salon Secrets Elixir, Trinder partially dried them so they retained a bit of a greasy, wet finish. Fashioning a deep side part, he proceeded to gather lengths into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck that resulted in a tight, twisted chignon. Worthington’s Front Row Mirror Dazzle Shine Spray and a fat blush brush swept away any lingering flyaways.

Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.con

Lip Love In London

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Lips haven’t really been the big story of the Spring shows thus far, as eyes—and more often than not, contours and shadows—dominated the backstage scene in New York. That continues to be the case in London, as a certain pared down, nineties beauty mantra presided over Dion Lee, Peter Pilotto, and Christopher Kane this morning (more on that in a bit). But a few mouth moments have still managed to creep into a season that is usually littered with luxe lips, the better to play with when the weather (and the collective mood) lightens up. Pat McGrath debuted a perfect red at Anna Sui last week, and Michael van der Ham and Louise Gray both called for coral at their respective shows today. But Andrew Gallimore did them all one better at Holly Fulton this weekend, whipping up a two-tone mouth that’s prepped and primed for a little summer fun. Lining pouts with MAC Lip Pencil in Embrace Me, a hot magenta, Gallimore concocted a creamy, custom pink pigment with a blend of its Lipmix in Fuchsia and White, which he used to bolster the outline before applying a few brushstrokes of its Lipmix in Orange to the center. It’s cute and a little kitschy, and it definitely managed to jar us out of our minimalism-inspired complacency, for the time being at least. Would you wear it?

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

“Pastel Tans” And Layered Lips, Backstage At Erdem

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Astute audience members at Erdem Moralioglu‘s show of cool blue floral prints may have noticed a subtle detail as Anais Pouliot and co. walked the box-shaped runway with shoulders, décolletage, and necks bared: Their skin also curiously glowed with the icy tint. “It’s a pastel tan,” St. Tropez’ Nichola Joss said, coining the term for a new skin finish she’s been introducing here at the London collections. Models are sprayed with St. Tropez’ Wash-Off tanner in mobile booths for a faint sun-kissed effect but mostly for “polish and dimension,” which creates a base for a handful of the brand’s new Illuminators. “I’m using a silver and a blue,” Joss said, buffing and layering the two hues into limbs with a specialized mitt for a uniform finish.

Coiffing legend Charles Worthington placed his own label on the beauty look. “It’s South of France chic,” he said, interpreting the designer’s In the Mood for Love inspiration with an “architectural and glamorous” ponytail. Spritzing hair with Charles Worthington Front Row Volumizing Spray at the root, Worthington’s lead stylist, Marc Trinder, slathered lengths with its Heat Protector Spray before gathering them into a high ponytail, securing with an elastic and “tonging” the style (wrapping it around a curling iron, for those of you who don’t speak session stylist) to give it a little “bounce and swish” as the girls walked. The top was left deliberately soft and fluffy, an homage to an old picture of Chloë Sevigny that Moralioglu had shared with Worthington.

As for those red lips, makeup artist Andrew Gallimore applied MAC’s forthcoming Lipstick in Scarlet Ibis and matted it down with its Prep + Prime Translucent powder before patting on a layer of MAC Pigment in Red to provide a “velvet, rose petal” effect. Brows were brushed up with MAC Brow Set in Mink for fullness while lashes were coated in mascara for a fluttery finish. To complement Joss’ dose of luminosity, Gallimore added his own bit of shine in the form of Lucas’ Papaw ointment, which he dabbed onto lips and on top of cheekbones.

Photo: GoRunway.com