4 posts tagged "Anthony Vaccarello"
Hairstylist Anthony Turner gave himself a challenge for Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall show: “How can you make something elegant, cool?” he asked rhetorically backstage while prepping strands with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Snow Mousse. “[Showing] the neck gives you elegance,” he explained, gathering lengths into a mid-center ponytail that he roughed up with concentrated spritzes of its Texture Expert Fresh Dust Dry Shampoo before twisting them into a messy knot. As for the cool factor, that came from Turner’s technique that included pulling out soft wispy bits around the hairline that were set with its Elnett Hairspray. “I always want the hair to feel very organic,” Turner explained of the style’s ease. “It keeps it young, and spontaneous; anything too considered can feel old.”
And these girls were meant to look anything but old. “It’s a little bit more strict this season,” Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux said of Vaccarello’s typically sexed-up collections, which featured a black and white palette that weighed heavy on metallic embellishments this time around. To add an “austere but sensual” touch, Pecheux devised yet another variation on Fall’s favorite burgundy lip. “The dark lip is good for that” he said of the deep color’s contrasting effect while coating pouts with Lauder’s Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine, which he topped with a blend of its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture and its forthcoming Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Hot Lava. Its Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder in Transparent ensured mouths had a matte finish, which carried over to complexions as well. After initially hoping to leave the face just like that, Pecheux realized that models needed a molten eye to soften the hardness of the lip so they didn’t look like such “tough cookies.” Cue a double-time application of the Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture, which Pecheux painted across lids and underneath the lower lash line before blotting with the taupe-y shade from its Pure Color EyeShadow Duo in Vanilla Pods.
Skipping mascara and any semblance of contouring or blush, Pecheux did design a nail look here for the first time. To continue the “vino” color of lips and lids on tips, manicurist Christina Conrad used Lauder’s Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Bitter Sweet and Fallen Angel, which she accented with silver moons courtesy of its as-yet-unreleased varnish in Smoked Chrome.
Once pleasantries are exchanged and hair and makeup looks discussed, the backstage chatter this season has more often than not turned to a readily repeated question: Where are all the big models? Fall’s familiar faces—Natasha Poly, Anja Rubik, and Anna Selezneva—have been few and far between for Spring, replaced instead by a host of newcomers from last season like Kati Nescher, Cara Delevingne, and Marie Piovesan. Rubik and Fall 2011 star Arizona Muse made a point to make their presence known right off the bat in Paris, though, as both models—joined by fellow bigs like Constance Jablonski, Karlie Kloss, and Jourdan Dunn—were backstage at Anthony Vaccarello. “It’s so nice to see you,” an elated Muse said to Rubik. It was the former’s first show all season. “I’ve been working but am really excited to be here,” the newly named Estée Lauder face explained of her absence; for Muse, who recently relocated to London full time, it was an easy train ride to the City of Light. As she left Tom Pecheux’s makeup chair and a flurry of photographers surrounded the Tucson native, we noticed something different about her; her bangs had grown out, or so it appeared. “These are extensions from a shoot! I had the pros do this [for me]. I’m growing them out but they’re at a weird length,” she elaborated of the controversial fringe she cut last season. “It’s back to the length and color it was when I first started modeling, too. I like the bob,” she said. Us too.
When Tom Pecheux signed on as Estée Lauder’s creative director of makeup in the fall of 2009, he had a specific goal in mind: to inject a sense of ”fashion, fantasy, naughtiness, and above all youth” into the 66-year-old brand. Three years later, he managed to get all four objectives into one backstage beauty look, as the makeup artist and the storied New York cosmetics brand combined forces at Anthony Vaccarello, Lauder’s first ever appearance at Paris fashion week.
“The inspiration is Parisian women late at night,” Pecheux said—a recurring theme with the Frenchman who spent his younger days dancing until the wee hours of the morning in the City of Light at clubs like Le Palace. Pecheux is so well versed in the way of nude lips and sultry eyes, he has even designed a limited-edition color collection for Estée Lauder in homage to the “naughty-chic” aesthetic, as he likes to call it. Prepping skin with a blend of its Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher and DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15, Pecheux applied a veil of Estée Lauder Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10 to hold a “little bit of contour,” courtesy of its Bronze Goddess Soft Shimmer Bronzer. Lips were painted nude with its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle, which Pecheux matted down with translucent powder.
But what made these girls beautiful Parisian women—and not beautiful American or even Polish women, Pecheux explained as Anja Rubik sat in his chair—was a focus on the eyes, and the eyebrows. “You know how much I love them,” the face painter said of the full, face-framing arches, which he filled in and brushed up using Lauder’s Artist’s Brow Pencil Double Groomer. Lids were layered with a combination of its Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in Onyx, which Pecheux drew around the outer corner of the eyes and in strokes underneath the lower lash line, only to smudge them later with his finger, and a mix of shimmering black and berry shadows. ”I’m using a burgundy pencil just inside the eye,” he explained of the stroke of Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine that he topped with a dollop of its Pure Color Gloss in Opulent Opal to add a multi-dimensional glimmer that referenced the iridescent fabrics in the middle of Vaccarello’s collection. Hairstylist Anthony Turner’s sleek, gelled-down, “sexy soldier” ponytails bore a similar shine. ”C’est bon?” Pecheux asked Rubik as he slicked the glitter-flecked salve across her eyes. “Oui!” she replied.
After letting the cat out of the bag via Twitter that she would in fact be making a Fall 2012 cameo, Karlie Kloss turned up on the Anthony Vaccarello runway yesterday. She’s not the only big-deal model to return to the catwalk this season, either. There was that collective, does-it-get-any-better-than-this Gisele, Shalom, and Carmen sighting at Alexander Wang in New York, and on Monday, Naomi Campbell closed Roberto Cavalli’s presentation. Another one of our all-time favorite girls who is using this season as an excuse to get back into the game is Lily Donaldson. “I’m happy to be back—it’s nice to see my friends,” she told us of her recent turns at Fendi, Pucci, Dolce, and Cavalli (Donaldson was shooting during the London and New York shows, although she did make time for Anna Sui earlier this month). While marveling at the mere sight of Donaldson backstage, we noticed that her skin is truly something to behold—even after seven days of constant wear and tear. ”I always take my makeup off,” the Brit beauty insists, listing the first step of her fairly low-key regimen that also includes Simple facial wipes to help ensure that her fair complexion stays blemish-free. ”Then there’s this Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum that’s really good—and I love Avene.” Donaldson joined Kloss at Anthony Vaccarello, her first stop in Paris, and she couldn’t be more excited to be here—if not for the excellent shows, then for the homegrown beauty bounty. “The French pharmacy is my heaven. I don’t really spend money except [there],” she divulges. ”All of my friends think I’m crazy!” When she’s in town, Donaldson stocks up on Avene’s Day Cream as well as its Cold Cream for winter. “I use [Bioderma's] Crealine, too, but everybody uses that. I also just found the most amazing lip balm. It’s on a stick and it smells kind of like almonds. It’s the best thing ever. It looks like it’s medicated but it’s not! I can’t remember the brand name but it’s short and stubby and I need to buy some more.” As soon as we wrestle the brand name away from her, we’ll be getting in on that purchasing tip, too.