10 posts tagged "Anthony Vaccarello"
Makeup artists demonstrated their affinity for azure all over the Spring 2014 runways—ranging from “psychedelic pastels” at Anna Sui to sophisticated navy at Anthony Vaccarello. At last night’s Golden Heart Awards in New York City, Constance Jablonski showed her support for the color (and a cause) with a blue-gray shadow that matched her icy eyes. What a winning combination.
While we’ve seen some interesting things done with eyeliner in the past (Peter Philips at Chanel and Fendi anyone?), the bum shot that makeup artist Wendy Rowe posted on Instagram today was certainly cheeky. With denim recently incorporated into Anthony Vaccarello’s and Balmain’s collections, the hunt for that elusive pair that accentuates every curve without pulling across the front or gaping in the back is set to continue for Spring. Here, a black pencil offers a simple (albeit bold) solution to finding the perfect fit.
For super Anja Rubik, her heart belongs to one man: Anthony Vaccarello. And she’ll do anything in the name of love, even if it means stopping off in Paris to open his show (and his alone). “Although I promised myself that I would take it really easy—I only did a Gucci exclusive in Milan—I said I have to come because I missed him last season and I couldn’t forgive myself, and he couldn’t forgive me,” she says. And since the model offers her opinion on the collection from its beginning stages (Vaccarello sends her e-mails asking her for input), it’s only natural that she would want to walk the runway in the finished product. She says of her first look, a jacket with “slightly ridiculous” gold buttons: “It’s quite grotesque, and I like it.” The second thigh-baring dress, she admits, is her favorite. Rubik’s next project with Vaccarello: getting the designer to come out of his shell. “He’s still quite shy,” she notes. “But we’re working on that!”
The makeup at Anthony Vaccarello, created by Tom Pecheux, was strangely familiar, harking back to Derek Lam’s show a few weeks ago. The French designer asked for something graphic that played up the outer corners of the eyes, which immediately set off alarm bells in the face painter’s head. “I can’t repeat myself, but I still have to respect what he’s looking for,” Pecheux explained. While the shape was small and rectangular on the runway in New York, the first day of Paris fashion week called for something a bit more dramatic—hence, the larger triangle that floated away from the eye. Pecheux cut a stencil into a plastic sheet protector with an X-Acto knife for each member of his team to insure uniformity. “If you freehand, it’s much more romantic. But this is a fashion cosmetic factory; we have to move fast,” he added.
Pecheux prepped models’ complexions with Estée Lauder Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher, then mixed a drop of Advanced Night Repair (which helps “Velcro” foundation to the skin) with Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup. Pure Color Blush in Sensuous Rose was used to contour the cheeks and worked slightly onto the apple to finish. A pinky-nude hue—Pure Color Envy Lipstick in Insatiable Ivory (launching March 2014)—was slicked onto lips with a brush. The handcrafted stencil was then placed against the face so the tip of the triangle hit the highest point of the crease, lifting the eye upward. Using a stiff eyebrow brush, he filled it in with a black shadow from the Pure Color Eye Shadow Duo in Moons, then layered over top with a brighter shade of cobalt (Pure Color Gelée Powder Eye Shadow in Fire Sapphire)—the end result being a midnight blue that picked up on the touches of navy in the collection. Next, he arched the pigment over the crease and ended it just past the inner corner of the eye. Pecheux filled in brows with a pencil that was a touch darker than each model’s hair color, focusing on the inner corners to bring balance to the face.
Inspired by Vaccarello’s introduction of denim into the line, hairstylist Anthony Turner wanted to create a style that was a bit more “street.” And what better reference point than a street-style snapshot of the designer’s close friend Anja Rubik? “We looked at a picture where she was pushing her hands through her hair” he recalled. “So I thought, Why don’t we try to interpret that?” For hold, Turner worked mousse through strands and blew them dry with a few drops of L’Oréal Professionel Mythic Oil and a Mason Pearson brush for smoothness. To get a “poker-straight” finish, he ran a flat iron over top. For a bit of lift in front, True Grip Texturizing Powder was sprinkled in at the roots and back-combed about two inches from the forehead using a rattail comb. He misted all over with Infinium hair spray to polish off the look. “I wanted to maintain the confidence and sexiness that is the Anthony Vaccarello woman but introduce a sportier element,” Turner elaborated. Mission accomplished.
One might imagine that once you reach the level that Tom Pecheux has in the cosmetic and runway worlds, you could fill your kit with everything and anything—from the most luxe face cream to Q-tips spun from silk. However, he prefers the cotton swabs by Muji. “These are the best things in the world, and every woman should have them,” the face painter gushed about the makeup blunder-erasing buds. And for once, we all can—two hundred of the thin version retail for $3.50, while the standard kind go for $2.25. “They are very firm and very cheap—in terms of price,” he added. And one more little known fact: Pecheux can name nearly every Muji store location from Paris to New York.
(Above: Scenes from Pecheux’s tabletop, backstage at Anthony Vaccarello)