13 posts tagged "Anthony Vaccarello"
This season, makeup artists reached for all sorts of unconventional beauty tools—dental floss at Anthony Vaccarello, liquid latex at Dior, and feathers at Alexander McQueen—but you’ll never guess where makeup artist Vincent Oquendo nabbed the star-shaped toppings he sprinkled on lids for the March issue of Italian ELLE. While a magician of maquillage never spills his best-kept secrets, he did give me a hint: It’s a sweet-smelling place you go to treat yourself and stray from your diet.
Hair was piling up on the floor backstage at Anthony Vaccarello when I came upon mane master Anthony Turner’s station. He was carving his way around the head of Brit beauty Sam Rollinson. “He said, ‘Listen, I really, really, really need Sam in the show, but I prefer her hair how it was,’” Turner said of his conversation with the designer. “The only way to get around that was a wig.” Over her twenties bob sat an updated version of her previous “hard-lined, seventies bowl,” but this time it was more “aggressive” and “rock ‘n’ roll.” Choppy, “chewed-up” layers were snipped in the same vein as short-haired catwalkers like Edie Campbell (who inspired the Joan Jett-esque shags at Marc Jacobs a few seasons ago). “I was thinking if I had got the chance to cut Sam’s hair for real, how would I do it. Now I have the chance to do just that,” explained Turner. “It’s very deconstructed, a bit all over the place—almost as if she’s done it herself,” he said of the final result. As for Rollinson, she’s ready to sport this style for longer than ten minutes (the approximate length of a runway show). “I really like it, it’s really cool,” she said of her new crop. Turner’s last piece of advice to the model who is planning to grow her hair out: “Let me cut it for you next time.”
Inspiration comes from everywhere, and in the case of makeup artist Tom Pecheux, we mean everywhere. Before the face painter left for Milan, he had concocted an entirely different look with the designer. Upon returning to Paris, they both decided it wasn’t right. So what brilliant tool does one turn to when in need of something fresh? Floss. (Yes, really.) “That same morning before going to the fitting I had an appointment with the dentist, and I was sitting in the dentist’s chair, and I was like, ‘Ah, yes—floss,’” Pecheux said. (It wouldn’t have been my first thought while awaiting the drill, but hey, that’s what makes the man such a genius.) After prepping lids with powder and using a black pencil in between the lashes, he coated a strand of floss wound tightly between his fingers with Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Envious, then pressed it above the top lashes and below the bottom set. With model Liu Wen acting as his “sexy assistant” by holding the Double Wear Zero-Smudge Liquid Eyeliner while he ran the string over the tip, Pecheux framed the graphic red lines with skinny black bands, adding a final onyx slash in the “banana” (i.e., crease). Aside from a trip to the dentist’s office, illustrators like René Gruau and Tony Viramontes inspired the eighties-meets-rock-and-roll maquillage; the color palette came by way of the collection (particularly the shiny, crimson ruffle on Look 26). While this isn’t the first time Pecheux reached for floss in a fashion context (having used it for an editorial in V magazine), improvements in oral care did pose a new challenge: “Fifteen years ago dental floss was dry, and now it has wax on it, so it’s very slippery,” he noted.
The hair by Anthony Turner was equally as edgy, but in lieu of clean lines, the pro employed a “bit of bend” to give strands movement. After prepping with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Pli Thermo-Fixing Spray, he pressed sections in with his fingers while blow-drying. “It shouldn’t feel too sad—it’s not about grungy, lank, nothing hair,” he explained. A masculine side part was made, Wild Stylers Next Day Hair (“a dry shampoo without the dustiness”) was misted all over, and the length was tucked behind the ears and into the “polar necks” that completed the majority of the ensembles—a gesture we’ve seen multiple times throughout the season. “She means business, I reckon, this woman. She doesn’t even think about her hair,” said Turner. I reckon I’d agree.
Makeup artists demonstrated their affinity for azure all over the Spring 2014 runways—ranging from “psychedelic pastels” at Anna Sui to sophisticated navy at Anthony Vaccarello. At last night’s Golden Heart Awards in New York City, Constance Jablonski showed her support for the color (and a cause) with a blue-gray shadow that matched her icy eyes. What a winning combination.
While we’ve seen some interesting things done with eyeliner in the past (Peter Philips at Chanel and Fendi anyone?), the bum shot that makeup artist Wendy Rowe posted on Instagram today was certainly cheeky. With denim recently incorporated into Anthony Vaccarello’s and Balmain’s collections, the hunt for that elusive pair that accentuates every curve without pulling across the front or gaping in the back is set to continue for Spring. Here, a black pencil offers a simple (albeit bold) solution to finding the perfect fit.