6 posts tagged "Armani Prive"
In lieu of the “diaphanous” green shadow employed at Giorgio Armani’s Spring 2014 show in Milan, makeup artist Linda Cantello opted for a more subtle hue for his “One Night Only” celebration, held last evening at SuperPier in New York City. She dotted a forthcoming taupe formula in between the lashes to avoid any harsh lines, then applied a hint of the same color through the crease. But if designer’s most recent Privé collection was any indication, beige in the world of Armani is anything but boring. “Everyone is doing the nineties nude [this season], but this is a naughty nude,” explained the face painter of the sexy champagne tone. To keep the eyes looking soft, she skipped mascara. The skin was perfected using the brand’s CC cream (launching in March), which cancels any redness but lends a transparent—not cakey—finish. “He hates blush,” revealed Cantello, so obviously cheeks were kept bare per the boss’ orders. The lips, however, were dabbed with a custom-blended berry-pink lipstick that looked “lived in.” “We come with thousands of products and huge suitcases, but never have the right shade,” she said. Hence the reason the backstage team travels with a mobile beauty lab (essentially all the pigments and colors used by chemists to create the house’s cosmetics in a stationary location). “Of all the designers I’ve worked with, he pays the most attention to detail,” Cantello revealed, saying that Mr. Armani notices everything—including the tiny amount of gloss that wasn’t matted down before his second show this past season. But as his breathtaking couture illustrated last night, perfection, in addition to longevity, is all in the details.
Following her breakthrough Fall ’13 season, Sasha Luss has quickly become one of the most in-demand fresh faces in the industry. The 21-year-old Russian model’s white-hot career got an additional boost at the Haute Couture shows last week, where she officially debuted a platinum dye job on the runways of Armani Privé (which she bookended), Dior (Simons chose her as the opener), Valentino, Atelier Versace, Giambattista Valli, Bouchra Jarrar, and Elie Saab. Luss was rocking her natural honey-hued tresses just weeks before, during the Resort presentations, turning up on the Chanel and Calvin Klein Collection catwalks. Rumor on the street is her icy-blonde makeover was for a Steven Meisel shoot. Considering her recent Numéro cover and a confirmed spot in the new Tommy Hilfiger ads, we wouldn’t be surprised to see this rising star go on to nab a Vogue Italia cover and additional campaigns.
“I think it’s the best collection he’s done in a while,” Linda Cantello candidly remarked backstage at Armani Privé—and she’s on good authority to say so; as Giorgio Armani Beauty’s international makeup artist, the famed face painter has seen a fair bit of the designer’s work firsthand. For his Fall Couture presentation, Mr. Armani focused on a neutral palette, which Cantello adopted into makeup form with a few twists and turns along the way.
Working off the show’s Death in Venice-meets-Old Hollywood theme, Cantello honed in on a look that was part Tadzio from Visconti’s classic film and part Carole Lombard, while also offering up an impressive study in subtlety. “He’s very into nude,” she elaborated of Mr. Armani’s preference for toned-down hues, which prompted her to accentuate a matte base of the brand’s forthcoming Maestro To Go foundation—which puts Cantello’s original weightless complexion corrector into the convenience of a compact—and a dusting of its Luminous Silk Powder, with muted eye and lip contours. After treating pouts to a custom-mixed bois de rose stain, which will be called Tadzio when it is released as a new shade of Rouge d’Armani lipstick come January, Cantello set to creating an eye gloss using its light bronze Fluidsheer #2 and a highly reflective luminescent pigment that she layered on top of a diffused brown pencil. “It’s harder to look for something in the exact color that I need than to just make it myself,” she laughed.
If Cantello’s interpretation of screenstar glamour was an exercise in restraint, Orlando Pita’s was indulgent. “It’s a little twenties, thirties, Great Gatsby,” the coiffing star suggested of his Armani debut, pointing out that the hair was “more couture” than the designer has done in a while. “Now that John Galliano and Alexander McQueen are gone from the business, a new guard has created a kind of couture that relates to the street,” Pita said with a wistful air. “It was always about fantasy; that’s gone for now,” he continued. But it lived again for a few short hours here, courtesy of Pita’s soft sets, which were side-parted and fashioned into ridged faux-bobs offering some of the most stunning silhouettes of the week—particularly as models got some fresh air on the Place du Trocadéro, the Eiffel Tower providing a properly grand background behind them.
After a Fall and Resort show season that had makeup minds firmly focused due north of the nose, the eyes continue to have it for Couture. Blue-gray smoky varieties dominated at Chanel, and they turned up again yesterday at Armani Privé, where the brand’s creative director of makeup, Linda Cantello, eschewed more common, black varieties of the classic, sultry shadow technique and went with slate and pewter instead. As Peter Philips did for Karl Lagerfeld, Cantello delivered a completely updated shape to the standard style for Giorgio Armani, calling it “a wash” of color. Extending brows all the way toward the hairline in a single, dégradé stroke, Cantello concentrated her pigment on the inner corners of the eye, sweeping her brush only halfway through the crease, breaking, and then continuing the color toward the outer corner in a thicker, more transparent block that tapered out toward the temple. Models’ lips received a dusting of powder with a similar palette so they appeared pale, matte, and muted to go along with the designer’s theme, which took its inspiration from the light at dawn and dusk. The striking yet still minimal face-painting effort created a certain futuristic consistency that still managed to hark back to more classic eras—a point that was certainly helped along by Franco Gobbi’s sleek, 1930′s “ocean waves,” which boasted sculpted ridges along the hairline and a bun in the back to allow room for the army of black Philip Treacy headpieces that marched down the runway.