4 posts tagged "Atelier Cologne"
Beauty Etiquetter is a new column on Beauty Counter in which we address your beauty-protocol predicaments with candid advice from industry experts and those in the know. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ email@example.com.
The Quandary: I just read something about how Halle Berry applies her fragrance on her thighs, which I had never heard of. Is that commonplace? What’s the general rule of thumb for spritzing on a fragrance?
The Expert in Residence: Sylvie Ganter, founder of Atelier Cologne.
The Advice: “I always suggest to spray your pulse points, including your wrists, behind the ears, and even behind your knees—especially if you are wearing a skirt. Applying on your pulse points, the warmest parts of your body, allows for the perfect dry-down, so you will experience the freshness of the top notes, while the richness of the base notes lingers. If you want that very familiar scent to surround you all day long, spray the tips of your hair lightly. Every time you turn your head, you will be reminded of your scent of the day. I personallylike to spray my clothes if I’m wearing a sweater. Not only will the garment hold the scent throughout the day, but when I pick it up to wear itagain, it’s usually still there!”
Last we checked in with Atelier Cologne, beauty veterans Sylvie Ganter and Christopher Cervasel’s labor of love that explores the idea of infusing higher concentrations of essential oils into traditionally light colonias, they were hard at work on a second line that focused on five singular ingredients. Following successful releases that put the spotlight on patchouli, amber, and vanilla, the duo launched Rose Anonyme and Vetiver Fatal this fall as side-by-side offerings, intending for their delicate blends of icy ginger, oud, and patchouli, and orange flower and cedarwood, respectively, to play off one another. “It’s about a thief—public enemy number one—and she is in love with the man that’s trying to capture her,” Cervasel says of the story behind the pair of scents, reminding us that each of the rectangular glass bottles in the range is meant to evoke a moment in time, not just a distinct aroma. For their latest project, Ganter and Cervasel were looking to hone in on not just a moment, but a few years—100 of them, to be exact. To fête the centennial anniversary of Galeries Lafayette, Atelier Cologne has just debuted Sous le toit de Paris, an homage to the famed French department store. “100 years ago, they were making colonias out of violets, so we remade one,” Cervasel explains of the French violet leaf-tinged fragrance with accents of Moroccan neroli, South African geranium, Haitian vetiver, and tonka bean from Brazil. The exclusive creation went on sale at Galeries Lafayette this month, but can also be purchased on the brand’s Web site—and at its newly erected stores on Elizabeth Street in New York’s Nolita neighborhood and on Rue Saint-Florentin in Paris’ first arrondissement. If you haven’t been yet, both are worth a visit at the very least for the antique engraving machines that sit perched inside, ready and waiting to custom-monogram a leather sleeve for your fragrance of choice.
Sylvie Ganter spent many years working in the perfume industry before debuting Atelier Cologne, a collection of five concentrated perfume waters that Ganter coined “colognes absolue.” With her latest launch, she takes on the acute challenge of re-imagining a note both beloved and maligned: vanilla. Unsurprisingly, considering her already impressive perfume compositions (our personal favorite, Trefle Pur, brings a bright, new freshness to feminine violet), Ganter’s vanilla shares little in common with other fragrances based around the sweet spice, which tend to be too cloying, too saccharine, or so gourmand it smells edible. As the name implies, Vanille Intensée is a bit revved-up—notes of lime, coriander, jasmine, oak moss, and vetiver give substance and structure to a rich Madagascar vanilla base, so it’s a darker, more sensual side of vanilla. A vanilla, that’s not so vanilla, if you will. (And we will).
When we met Sylvie Ganter for a bite on a recent afternoon, she was beaming. After years of working in the fragrance industry, her own line of scents was about to debut, marking the realization of a dream she seems to have had for, well, ever. “Twenty years,” she surmised when we asked her how long she’d been planning Atelier Cologne, her five-piece collection that bowed at Bergdorf Goodman this week. As a perfume executive, she cut her teeth at Hermès (where she served as vice president of the U.S. fragrance division) and held posts at Fresh and Selective Beauty, where she met Christophe Cervasel, the man who helped bring her unique idea to life. That idea was to take the concept of cologne—a lighter, less concentrated version of parfum, also known as “body splash” by the uncouth—and update it with rich concentrations of essential oils (12 to 18 percent, to be exact) that still managed to retain a level of carefree freshness. Ganter and Cervasel’s collective vision resulted in a new olfactory category they’ve termed Cologne Absolue. The initial offering comprises five unique scents, each of which has been devised in conjunction with a specific moment in time: Grand Néroli, for example, blends warm musks and vanilla with the sweet smell of orange flowers, which are frequently woven into hair wreaths and worn by brides on their wedding day in the South of France, where Ganter grew up. Other options include Orange Sanguine, a blood orange geranium eau; Bois Blonds, which combines soft woods, incense, and vetiver; Trèfle Pur, a violet scent sprinkled with green notes; and Oolang Infini, which features blue tea and bergamot offset by hints of smoke and leather. Spring freshness—until we can get it from the elusive season, we’ll happily take Ganter’s version.