149 posts tagged "Beauty Insider"
Post-fashion month, hair pro Sam McKnight has been uploading more Instagram pics of his backyard oasis in London than backstage beauty moments. It’s a place he often finds inspiration, particularly for his new collection of hair accessories with Vicki Sarge, landing exclusively on Net-a-Porter this spring. “They’re based on dying flowers in my garden,” he told me in Paris, flipping through photos of headbands, clips, and hair elastics on his iPhone. McKnight adorned ponytails with camellia flowers at Chanel, but I myself can’t wait to re-create the look with one of these plastic-and-crystal blooms once this cold front finally moves on.
What was life like before the rise of the beauty bar? Much more of a hassle, that’s for sure. Built on the concept that busy individuals want to walk into a destination devoted to a single service—be it blow-outs, eyebrow shaping, braid-making, or even skin checkups—without an appointment and be out the door in less than an hour, these speed-oriented shops have been popping up with ever-increasing frequency. To which we say: Welcome. The latest arrival is Pucker, a new makeup studio in Soho, where you can drop by for touch-ups or entire face transformations in about thirty minutes. The menu features a variety of looks (everything from a red lip and dark lashes to contoured cheekbones and bright eyes) and, notably, utilizes the studio’s own cosmetics range, created by cofounder and makeup artist Julio Sandino.
Another standout feature: the beauty of the space itself. Arranged to feel like a friend’s well-edited apartment, it features sheepskin throws, vintage-minded furniture, and a number of design concepts conducive to both applying and organizing makeup brilliantly. Case in point: the vanities in the center of the room with thoughtfully placed lighting overhead and mirrors that reflect your face without being frighteningly oversized. The masterminds behind this intelligent aesthetic are Philipp and Kit von Dalwig, the husband-and-wife founders of Manifold Architecture Studio in Brooklyn, whose clientele includes Italian sneaker label Superga and industrial-cool Gasoline Alley Coffee shops in New York City. For more details on the beauty-focused interior, we spoke with architect Kit von Dalwig for pro ways to scout out a similarly modern—and pretty—setup at home.
Pucker is all about speed and efficiency—did that inform your design process as well?
It was a quick process! We finished the entire space in three months. The time frame was actually the biggest challenge.
So how can someone without a lot of free time on their hands create a sleek makeup space?
We did a mix of custom-built or specialized pieces, which took more time, along with items that were more readily available, like the mirrors on the wall, which are from West Elm.
Let’s discuss the vanity—it doesn’t look like a typical makeup table, which makes it so cool.
We talked a lot about that. It’s modeled after a curiosity table, where you can pull out the tablets and set them on the table if you wish or slide them back and have it look neat. The concept for the space was to have tables where you could play with makeup, along the lines of a lab or workshop. The top is made from Carrara marble, which is nice, because if you seal it, you can clean up makeup spills easily and it takes on a patina that grows with you.
How did you organize the drawers so you can find everything?
We arranged the makeup by how you would apply it. So from the center of the drawers moving outward we put products for face, cheeks, and then eyes. On the top, Julio had the idea for custom wooden holders for the lipstick. We wanted to create a landscape of lipstick without the typical pyramid stands. This way, you can see all the lipsticks and you also have the flexibility to add different colors for seasons. It’s something fun and different.
What else should a woman display on her vanity? Which products does an architect swear by?
We did a glass tray with cotton swabs, cleansing products, and taller items, like makeup pencils, in the center. It’s just the basics. I don’t have much beauty stuff at home. I get stuck on one brand, so I don’t have to think about it! Now I’m really into Aesop. I love the body soaps, and I just started using the facial cleansers and oils. They smell great, and the bottles look nice, so I can leave them out.
Lighting is obviously key when putting on makeup. What was your approach for casting the right glow?
We wanted to step away from the typical vanity [setup] with round bulbs and a huge mirror. Do you really need such a giant mirror in front of you? We thought it better to make the mirror fit the table more, and be there but not be so in-your-face. Then we did groups of hanging lights overhead, which makes them more substantial and also brings down the scale of the very tall ceilings. The brass and copper on the lights make them almost jewellike, and it adds a nice bit of glitz, but not too much.
Who were your sources for the custom pieces?
We used a lot of Brooklyn millworkers. The lipstick display, vanity mirrors, and glass trays were from Reason modern furniture, based in Bushwick. Furniture maker Mark Jupiter made the three vanity tables with drawers. He’s in Dumbo, just a block down from our studio, so it was great when things had to be fast moving.
How can makeup be a “muse,” so to speak, when designing a space at home?
It’s about textures and layering different finishes—glossy versus matte, for example. The plastered wall in Pucker was inspired by that moment when you open a new eyeshadow and it has that great texture and patterned softness to it.
And I heard there’s a “selfie” station in Pucker where you can snap a photo of your finished look. Did you try it out?
I did not—I’m too self-conscious. When I was a little kid, I was the type who turned around when someone was taking a picture. I was really shy.
Anyone who has experienced a facial with Isabelle Bellis firsthand would likely agree that it’s a transformative experience. And a lengthy one, at that—her signature facial treatments, which incorporate plenty of circulation-stimulating massage, usually hover around the two-hour mark. Even her extractions somehow don’t seem as painful an ordeal. And Bellis herself is always full of helpful skincare advice, so we couldn’t think of anyone better to offer up some guidance on how our skin can best, ahem, weather the extreme changes in temperature that seem par for the course this winter. Here, five tips to abide by.
WASH WITH CARE
“The skin needs to be cleaned in a more gentle way during the winter. As the skin of the face and neck get finer, it is more vulnerable to the cold weather and the heat in our homes. It’s vital to retain the good elements that the skin produces in order to protect the complexion. An aggressive foaming gel can damage and dry the skin, so even if one has oily skin, it is better to clean with a mild formula in order to keep the delicate skin fabric intact. A milky cleanser and toner or an extremely gentle foam cleanser is preferred.”
SHELF THE ACIDS
“Limit the amount of acidic products and treatments the face and neck are exposed to. Those who have fragile skin should opt to use these kinds of products in the spring or fall instead.”
WATCH YOUR WATER
“Try to limit the use of tap water on your face. If you use product that needs to be rinsed off with water, I recommend finishing with a spray of thermal water—I prefer the La Roche-Posay Spray Thermal for its beneficial properties and wonderful dispersion—to rid the skin of hard elements like chlorine, calcareous deposits, etc. We also have a tendency to take longer and warmer showers in the winter, and it’s important to avoid directing too much of the shower’s spray directly on the décolletage, as it is a very sensitive area where capillaries can react easily. Be sure to dry your body in a gentle way and not to rub with your towel. If you take a bath, apply oil to your body before you soak or add a few drops of oil to your tub.”
WARM UP YOUR DIET
“Avoid too much raw food, as it has a tendency to create dryness in the system that shows up on the skin. Since the body needs more energy to break it down, you may feel tired and less energetic. If you juice, make sure you have warm, balanced, healthy meals to compensate.”
ADD SOME OIL
“Oil is for any age and any type of skin, from combination to extremely dry. Apply an oil-based product to create an extra barrier and protect the capillaries from the cold. L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Oil is fantastic for winter. It absorbs rapidly without leaving skin greasy. And if you’re very dry, top it with a moisturizing cream for extra protection and nourishment.”
Post-Lillehammer Winter Olympics, Nancy Kerrigan told the masses that she was going to Disney World after “winning the hearts of the world” (and not the gold medal…that, of course, went to a pink marabou-clad Oksana Baiul). Ask the backstage beauty crews what they’ll be doing following fashion month and I guarantee you nobody will mention an amusement park. (To be honest, the casts of characters on the circuit are far more entertaining than a parade of princesses—and much better dressed). Here, what three MAC pros are up to now that the Fall 2014 madness has come to a close:
“Laying on the beach in Fiji with my husband, some cocktails, and a pile of books.”
“Trying to come up for air and reacclimate to my time zone before hitting the road to host five consecutive spring Master Class trips all over North America. No rest until summer for me!”
“Snuggling with my cats.”
Ditto to the last response. I’ll also be indulging in more than a disco nap at night and clocking some serious sleep.
This season, makeup artists reached for all sorts of unconventional beauty tools—dental floss at Anthony Vaccarello, liquid latex at Dior, and feathers at Alexander McQueen—but you’ll never guess where makeup artist Vincent Oquendo nabbed the star-shaped toppings he sprinkled on lids for the March issue of Italian ELLE. While a magician of maquillage never spills his best-kept secrets, he did give me a hint: It’s a sweet-smelling place you go to treat yourself and stray from your diet.