24 posts tagged "Bottega Veneta"
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Moment: Lived-in Locks
The Motivation: Remember the days when your mother told you to brush your hair before leaving the house, and a perfectly coiffed ‘do was the look du jour? Well, those days are long gone. Never has there been a time more obsessed with looking undone (Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, Burberry, Versace, Roberto Cavalli, and Bottega Veneta—cases in point). Our inspiration? The above shot from a 1989 issue of French Glamour. The French have always been masters at achieving the I-just-rolled-out-of-bed-and-look-like-this hair, and if the carefree strands we’ve seen on the New York, London, and Milan catwalks are anything to go by, we’re bound to see the style in its natural habitat: Paris.
We’ve talked a lot about doing as little as possible for Spring 2014, and at Bottega Veneta the concept was no different. “This season people aren’t referencing a woman—it’s just ease that they’re after,” said hairstylist Guido Palau, who chalks up this change to more conceptual silhouettes and techno fabrics on the runway. He cites hair as one of the mediums many designers are using (Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier included) to bring their clothes back down to earth for the modern woman. The natural, formless texture seen at today’s show was meant to lend an aspect of simplicity to the highly detailed collection (ruffles, precise pleats, gems, and even fringe all made an appearance). Palau worked with what the girls showed up with, creating a gentle bend with a curling iron where needed. He added a slightly off-center part and called it a day. “To wear a beautiful dress and not worry about your hair is the ultimate luxury, isn’t it?” he quipped.
Pat McGrath followed the same direction for the makeup, perfecting complexions with foundation, adding a natural brown tone around the eyes, dusting a light blush on the cheeks, and dabbing a clear balm on lips. “There was no exaggeration anywhere [on the face],” she said. Looks like purity has found a recurring place on the catwalk.
Long after the hustle and bustle of Milan fashion week has come to a close, you’ll be able to re-create the Italian experience (minus the jet lag) in the comfort of your bathroom. Available next month, Bottega Veneta is launching an ultraluxe bath ritual—containing a body scrub, body oil, body powder, and hair mist—all laced with a slightly masculine leather accord and notes of plum, oak moss, patchouli, and jasmine found in the distinctive and original eau. The exfoliator contains microparticles of apricot kernels that slough off rough patches without being overly abrasive, while the moisturizing oil dries down to a satin finish and leaves behind a subtle gleam without feeling greasy. For a softer touch, the shimmery body powder, applied with a puff, adds a delicate veil of gold sparkle, and the spritz for strands (available only in select Bottega Veneta boutiques), misted on the underlayers near the nape of the neck, helps you hang on to this rich scent and release it with a casual flip of your hair. While the storied house isn’t showing until Saturday, I’m glad to have gotten in on the far less frenzied designer action a few days early.
Tomas Maier is the kind of designer who is incredibly particular about all facets of his collections, which is to say every inch of a Bottega Veneta show is carefully considered—hair and makeup included. “He really wanted a hairstyle,” Guido Palau said of the soft, seventies-meets-forties, “Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver” curls he obliged Maier with for Fall.
Cleaning hair with Redken Curvaceous Shampoo and Conditioner so it was light and airy, Palau rough-dried strands with its Guts 10 Volumizing Spray Foam mousse to add texture, before creating a deep side part and tightly coiling one-inch sections, which had been prepped with Redken’s Iron Shape 11 Finishing Thermal Spray, around a thirteen-millimeter iron. Then, just before the show started, Palau loosely spread out the curls with a boar-bristle brush, slipping a single bobby pin above the right ear.
Maier was equally specific about models’ “matte, matte, ultra lip,” as makeup artist Pat McGrath referred to the burnt-orange-brown pigment that she painted onto pouts. “We did look at fabrics [from the collection] for that,” she elaborated of the custom color. Dusting a brown-black eye shadow on the tops of lids and underneath the lower lash lines—”Just to give a little sexiness”—McGrath finished the look with a light-handed application of brown mascara.
Following two seasons of platinum blonde loyalty and a Fall outing that made shades of deep brunette the runway hair hue du jour, the Spring 2013 shows are at a little bit of a color impasse. Castings have been relatively equal opportunity, with a lot of designers—Alexander Wang and Roberto Cavalli to name a few—requesting deliberately dark and light-haired models for the corresponding black and white sections of their presentations; Marc Jacobs, who ushered in the graphic trend with his Edie Sedgwick sixties salute, went as far as to have Laurie Foley take models black or white-gold, accordingly. Which is why it’s been hard to miss Irina Kravchenko. The Ukrainian newcomer who, despite opening Wang’s show, had a slow start in New York is killing it in Europe—not least because she remains one of the only redheads in this season’s catwalking crew. After staring at her from afar at Prada, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Marni, and Roberto Cavalli this week, we finally managed to get the scoop on those gorgeous ginger-auburn locks—despite some initial trouble understanding one another (beauty is an international language, don’t you know). “It’s blonde naturally,” Kravchenko revealed after we maniacally pointed and gestured to her hair (then ours). The word “salon” helped solicit the revelation that she has no need for one, as she does her dyeing herself with—get this—”chenna.” Henna? “Chenna—from grass,” Kravchenko reiterated. That’s right; those rich, show-stopping strands are the result of an at-home application of the plant that has long been used to dye fabrics, skin, nails—and hair. The style set’s superstar colorists are no doubt chomping at the bit to get their hands on this one.